Amazing Water Gardens

Amazing Water Gardens: Amazing New Pond Water Filter

2005-08-08T08:35:00.001-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Amazing New Pond Water Filter

Amazing New Pond Water Filter

2005-08-08T08:35:00.000-04:00

Amazing New Pond Water Filter – Attaches Directly to Your Garden Hose, and Instantly Removes Harmful Chemicals like Chlorine and Chloramine - Before They Go Into Your Pond

August 23, 2004 -- The new PF-100 pond water filter was developed specifically for pond owners. This unique new water filter design attaches to any standard garden hose or faucet, and instantly removes harmful chemicals like Chlorine, Chlorine, and Ammonia. Best of all, pond owners never have to worry about adding de-chlorinator again.

The new PondFresh PF-100 was designed specifically for pond owners.
This unique new water filter attaches directly to your garden hose and removes harmful chemicals from your tap water, including:

• Chlorine
• Chloramines
• Heavy Metals
• 45 other VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds)

Featuring the Aquaspace Compound
The PondFresh PF-100 uses a state-of-the-art filtering media, originally developed by NASA for use in it's space program. We had this filter designed for us by Aquaspace Water Filters, who has the exclusive license for using this technology.

Here are some other benefits:

• Easy to use!
• Compact and easy to store!
• Removes harmful chemicals Instantly!
• Reduces stress on your fish!
• Lasts up to 1 Year or 20,000 Gallons!
• Provides Drinking Quality Water!

If you would like more information about this product, or to schedule an interview with Brett Fogle, please call 1-800-695-4913 or email bfogle@bellatlantic.net

Brett Fogle
Tel. 1800-695-4913
Cell: 561-650-5105
Email: bfogle@bellatlantic.net

This article courtesy of http://amazingwatergardens.com.
You may freely reprint this article on your website or in
your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author
name and URL remain intact.

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

2005-08-03T08:42:00.001-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

2005-08-03T08:42:00.000-04:00

How to find a Pond Leak

If you have ever experienced a leak in your pond you will
know how time consuming and frustrating pinpointing the
source of the leak can be! While all ponds will lose some
water due to normal environmental issues such as evaporation
through sun or wind and splash, major water loss is a
significant problem.

The following steps should help make the task a little
easier:

1.Turn off the pump and observe water levels

(a) Does the water level continue to drop? If yes go to Step
3

(b) Does the water level remain the same? If yes go to step
2

2.The leak is not in your base pond.

(a)Inspect your plumbing, making sure that all joins and
fastenings are tight and waterproof.

(b)Ensure no plant matter is intruding into the
creek/waterfall causing water to run along plant stems and
out of the pond.

(c)Check the positioning of your rocks / pebbles. They may
have moved into the water, raising the water level thus
causing water to spill out.

(d)When surrounding garden area is dry check for wet
patches, indicating leaks. Inspect closer around the source
of any wet patches.

(e)Check your creek / waterfall for a build-up of organic
matter such as leaves, branches and twigs. Debris can cause
dams thus raising the water level causing the water to spill
out.

(f)Check liner is still in its original position and has
not dropped in height.

3.The leak is in your base pond.

(a)Watch the water level closely until the water level is
stable. Remove any fish and plants from the pond and store
temporarily in a container original pond water if water
level drops dangerously low.

(b)When the water level is no longer dropping check very
carefully around the water level. Some leaks will be obvious
while others will be tiny little holes that may be difficult
to see.

(c)If you have a larger leak, try putting some milk into
the water. The milk will cloud the water and move toward the
direction of the leak. This is not always successful but is
worth trying.

4.Repair the leak.

(a)Once you have located the leak you need to repair it.
Use either:

(i)Poly Pond Repair Kit or
(ii)PVC Liner Repair Kit

About the Author
Danielle Dickinson is an avid water feature enthusiast. She is a regular contributor to Gardening Magazines. Visit her website http://www.waterfeaturesonline.com.au for more information on building and maintaining any type of Water Feature as well as a huge range of water gardening products.

Amazing Water Gardens: Pool landscaping designs,

2005-07-14T08:05:00.001-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Pool landscaping designs,

Pool landscaping designs,

2005-07-14T08:05:00.000-04:00

Have you visions of turning your pool landscaping designs into successful projects? Building backyard ponds using preformed ponds built into the ground
If you are contemplating building a water garden or a backyard pool for yourself using a built in preformed pond liner then here is the way to make sure your pool landscaping designs work out in practice.

Planning Pool Landscaping Designs around A Preformed Pond Liner
Place the preformed pond liner in position and mark out the shape on the ground around it.
Carefully remove any turf within the shape and excavate to a level soil surface slightly larger than the shape. A long spirit level, or a spirit level with a long straight edge is essential.
Excavate the shape of the preformed pond liner down to the same depth as the marginal shelf. Then make it one inch deeper (25mm) and 4 inches (100mm) larger all around.
Check the hole is level, particularly around the edge.
Place the preformed pond liner in the excavation in its intended position and mark with a sharp stick or trowel the shape of the bottom of the preformed pond liner in the soil.
Remove the pool shape and excavate to the full depth of the preformed pond liner plus an inch (25mm). With a bit of adjustment the preformed pond liner will fit like a glove, albeit slightly too large. The preformed pond liner should be sitting just below the level you had intended.
Remove the preformed pond liner and spread a layer of sand one inch thick over the base and the marginal shelf areas.
Put the preformed pond liner back in. Ensure the base is firm and level and there is solid support under the marginal shelves. Start to fill it with water.
Take a look at Peter May's Perfect Pond Recipe book .... available by download or print and full of self explantory sketches

Whilst the preformed pond liner is filling, push sand into the gap between the preformed pond liner and the soil. The level of this backfill must go in unison with the water filling the pool and the pressure at which it is pushed in should correspond with the pressure from the water in the pool. This is a balancing act in which the sand or water could distort the shape. One German manufacturer used to recommend washing the sand into place in order to consolidate it. Doing this presupposes that the excavation is in fairly well drained soil and that you do not to get carried away with the backwash, otherwise the preformed pond liner just floats out of the hole.

Whatever method in landscaping designs you use, leave the pond there full of water over night to do any settling that might latterly occur, before you attempt any edging. If it shifts - empty it and build up the sand support where it has sunk. Gently ramming down the backfill further at the lowest point can make up tiny fractions in subsidence. If you need to do this don’t overdo it because it can buckle up the rim of the preformed pond liner, which you want to keep as flat as possible to take whatever edging you might want to choose to go round it.

Help to choose your preferred landscaping designs
Preformed pond liner for consideration in landscaping designs
Size limitation. Even the largest sizes of plastic pools are difficult to install level. Very large fibreglass pools are very heavy.
Seem easier to install in loose uneven ground. For the very large fibreglass pools, installation is not a one-person project.
Easier to keep clean but can look sterile and ‘plasticy’ in a natural environment.
Flexible pond liner for consideration in landscaping designs
Can be any shape and any size
Need a skeletal framework of blockwork or concrete to cope with loose soil or uneven ground.
Can be made to look more ‘natural’ by facing the inside with rockery. You can even line it with soil.
Marginal plant shelf can be where ever you choose.
Easily incorporate such features as jetties, decking, stonewalls, brick or wood facing and beaches
Take a look at Peter May's Perfect Pond Recipe book .... available by download or print and full of self explantory sketches

Blogger: Amazing Water Gardens :: Publish Status

2005-07-12T08:42:00.000-04:00

Blogger: Amazing Water Gardens :: Publish Status

How To Measure Water Garden Pond Depths and Volumes

2005-07-12T08:41:00.000-04:00

Pond depth is one of those factors in pond building much talked about and misunderstood especially by those people who "mix" with dedicated koi keepers.
So often you must ask yourself do I want a koi pond in which I want to raise monster sized or prize winning koi or do I want a garden fish pond containing koi around which I can sit with the family and enjoy the scene.

If you belong to the dedicated koi keeper class then yes depth of your pond should not be less than 4 ft and preferably 6 feet. This is quite simply to provide space to swim and exercise a mechanism which in part determines the koi's shape.

For most garden ponds 3 feet is deep enough and even less suits many situations. In cold climates shallow ponds freeze and in hot climates they get very warm. In shallow ponds you see MUCH more of your fish and their behaviour.

Most aquatic plants prefer shallow ponds.

Deep ponds cost much more than shallow ponds ... is this reason for many deep pond recommendations or am I sceptical?

Finally the choice comes down to personal preference, space and money available component.
If you need to calculate the pond's volume .... the volume of any pond is the surface area multiplied by its average depth. The more accurately you know both these numbers the more accurate your calculation will be.

If you have a pond and the depth is not constant you can make a very good estimate by taking a stick and mark it in intervals of say 3 inches with an indelible ink pen. At 10 different places in the pond insert the stick and record
the depths (10 numbers).

Add the numbers together and divide by 10. Use this answer as the average depth of the pond.

If your pond is of equal depth and the same cross section then you can accurately measure the pond volume using your pond pump. Do the following ....

Record the depth of the pond accurately before doing anything else.
Using the pond pump and a pipe time how long it takes to fill say a 5 gallons container to the 5 gallons mark (not much more not much less).

Now pump water out of the pond for say 5 minutes

Record the depth after pumping out water

The pond's volume is then calculated as follows:

S = depth of pond in inches or any unit before pumping starts
D = inches or any unit of water pumped out of pond when pumping
i.e. difference between start depth and final depth.
T1 = time to fill the container
T2 = time pump was run to pump out water
V = volume of container

Volume of pond = (S x V x T2) DIVIDED BY (D x T1)
Example:
S = 30 inches
D = 3 inches
T1 = 1 minute
T2 = 10 minutes
V = 3 gallons

Pond volume = (30 x 3 x 10) divided by (3 x 1)

= (900) divided by (3)

= 300 gallons

If container was in gallons then final pond volume is in gallons. If container was in litres then final pond volume is in litres

It does not matter whether you measure depth in inches or any other units.

Use the pump to pump out water in the same position used to fill the container.

Amazing Water Gardens: Fish pond pumps to pond biofilters must run 24/7/365

2005-07-11T08:40:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Fish pond pumps to pond biofilters must run 24/7/365

Fish pond pumps to pond biofilters must run 24/7/365

2005-07-11T08:39:00.000-04:00

Never switch off your pond pump for more than a few minutes if you keep fish. A pump in a fish pond serves a very important reason. Of course it circulates the water and it drives a fountain or a waterfall. Yes of course it adds character and movement to your system.

However ......
Its most important job is to provide life-giving oxygen to bacteria in the fish pond biofilter.

A pumps works like your heart ... the heart continuously replenishes your vital organs with freshly oxygenated blood. A pump in a pond does the same.

Let me take you through the events ....
Water absorbs oxygen at any interface between water and air.

Colder water can hold more oxygen than warmer water.
Windy days are better than still days for absorbing oxygen.

Water has more oxygen in it during the day than it does at night especially if there are pond plants growing in the pond.

A waterfall and a fountain are extremely useful in a pond because they increase that interface between water and air (small droplets have large area) which allows for more air to be absorbed.

Now some of this dissolved oxygen is used by your fish to breathe and most people do realise this.

What people do not realise very well is that water when it enters the biofilter has a certain amount of oxygen in it ..... let's say 100% for ease of understanding.

The bacteria in your biofilter are waiting for some food (nitrogen chemicals from fish waste) also dissolved in the pond water to reach them and they will also remove some of the oxygen in the water reducing the 100% to a lower value ... maybe even zero. Let me explain in a simplified but essentially accurate way .......

In order to digest this incoming food each bacteria needs a small amount of oxygen. This oxygen combines with the nitrogen molecules and eventually becomes what we call nitrates. Initially the nitrogen chemical food source before it is converted by the biofilter bacteria is called Ammonia and its chemical formula is NH3.

Notice ammonia contains no O ... for oxygen .... only N for nitrogen and H for hydrogen.
The biofilter bacteria, aeromonas and pseudomonas, convert the waste ammonia to nitrates. Notice what was initially NH3 has changed to a new chemical formula going by the general name of nitrates. The formula for nitrates is NO3. So what has happened?

The bacteria have removed the H from ammonia and exchanged it for 3 oxygen atoms. The H dropped from the ammonia molecule also combines with more O to form H2O ... water.

It should be obvious from this very simple explanation that a considerable amount of oxygen is needed to allow the bacteria to do their work.

Consequently the water leaving the biofilter does not have 100% oxygen but much less. In very efficient biofilters like the modern filters from the UK company Aqua Evolution most of the oxygen is removed and has to be quickly replenished if the bacteria are not to die.

So now you know .... never switch off your pond pump for any length of time if you keep fish and certainly never during feeding.
Here's are three very practical implication which you should take into serious consideration when you buy a pump ...

Will your retailer always ensure that you will have a pump if yours breaks down during the guarantee period?

Two pumps are almost always better than one, very often cheaper too, and this means you always have a spare pump for an emergency.

All biofilters benefit from adding extra air directly into the active biological area inside the biofilter. Without extra air over-designed static bed biofilters can in fact create anaerobic filter areas.

water gardens - Backyard Ponds

2005-07-10T16:16:00.002-04:00

water gardens - Backyard Ponds: "Commercial Ponds Fiberglass Ponds Fish Pond"

water gardens - Garden Pond

2005-07-10T16:16:00.001-04:00

water gardens - Garden Pond: " Building A Pond Building A Waterfall Clean Pond"

water gardens - Fish Ponds

2005-07-10T16:16:00.000-04:00

water gardens - Fish Ponds: "Garden Pond Garden Ponds Garden Water Features"

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

2005-07-09T21:00:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

2005-07-09T20:59:00.000-04:00

If you have ever experienced a leak in your pond you will
know how time consuming and frustrating pinpointing the
source of the leak can be! While all ponds will lose some
water due to normal environmental issues such as evaporation
through sun or wind and splash, major water loss is a
significant problem.

The following steps should help make the task a little
easier:

1.Turn off the pump and observe water levels

(a) Does the water level continue to drop? If yes go to Step
3

(b) Does the water level remain the same? If yes go to step
2

2.The leak is not in your base pond.

(a)Inspect your plumbing, making sure that all joins and
fastenings are tight and waterproof.

(b)Ensure no plant matter is intruding into the
creek/waterfall causing water to run along plant stems and
out of the pond.

(c)Check the positioning of your rocks / pebbles. They may
have moved into the water, raising the water level thus
causing water to spill out.

(d)When surrounding garden area is dry check for wet
patches, indicating leaks. Inspect closer around the source
of any wet patches.

(e)Check your creek / waterfall for a build-up of organic
matter such as leaves, branches and twigs. Debris can cause
dams thus raising the water level causing the water to spill
out.

(f)Check liner is still in its original position and has
not dropped in height.

3.The leak is in your base pond.

(a)Watch the water level closely until the water level is
stable. Remove any fish and plants from the pond and store
temporarily in a container original pond water if water
level drops dangerously low.

(b)When the water level is no longer dropping check very
carefully around the water level. Some leaks will be obvious
while others will be tiny little holes that may be difficult
to see.

(c)If you have a larger leak, try putting some milk into
the water. The milk will cloud the water and move toward the
direction of the leak. This is not always successful but is
worth trying.

4.Repair the leak.

(a)Once you have located the leak you need to repair it.
Use either:

(i)Poly Pond Repair Kit or
(ii)PVC Liner Repair Kit

About the Author
Danielle Dickinson is an avid water feature enthusiast. She is a regular contributor to Gardening Magazines. Visit her website http://www.waterfeaturesonline.com.au for more information on building and maintaining any type of Water Feature as well as a huge range of water gardening products.

Amazing Water Gardens: Pond landscaping designs,

2005-07-08T08:16:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Pond landscaping designs,

Pond landscaping designs,

2005-07-08T08:15:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Fish Food Choose the right food for value and quality

2005-07-07T08:13:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Fish Food Choose the right food for value and quality

Fish Food Choose the right food for value and quality

2005-07-07T08:12:00.000-04:00

Tetra fish food is still a very large seller in pond stick food form. This company have done an excellent fish food marketing job over many years.

I have long promoted that all buyers of fish food should read the contents label carefully in order to save money on their fish food bill. This topic is covered in a detailed article elsewhere so I am not going to regurgitate it here. except to say do not buy fish food with more than 10% ash in it unless you know why.

Instead lets talk about premium fish food sticks.
Such premium fish food is heavily promoted by leading producers with one German company, Tetra, in particular being the leader in this field. This company in fact is the inventor, I think, of the floating fish food stick and over the years they have done a remarkable marketing job of convincing many people to buy premium fish food sticks against all evidence that they are really good value for money.

In the early days of artificial pond and fish keeping the only food available to buy was food made to feed trout and similar farmed fish. The trouble was this type of food was first of all not formulated for feeding to carp types (koi and goldfish) and the food sank to the bottom immediately. Now this sinking factor was not all that serious since carp are natural bottom feeders but fish pond owners like to see their fish eating (don't we all) so the market need for a floating form of fish food was born ... forget flaked fish food used in aquariums and mainly which is ridiculously expensive.

Tetra, a German company, accepted the challenge and I believe created the first commercially available fish food stick that reliably floated. On the back of excellent technology and marketing they established a multinational market that thrives still today.

The reason that early forms of floating koi food was in stick format was due to the manufacturing method in which all the necessaryn ingredients were first blended together before being extruded under heat and pressure using steam. The extruder forced the compounded materials through a die plate with circular holes in it and as the sphagetti-like extrudate appeared from these holes the stick cylindrical shape was produced. The strand could be chopped into different lengths to make smaller sticks.

Review USA koi food and other on-line pond supplies

The process allowed entrapment of air to take place as the material extruded from high pressure to low and this gave the cylindrical shape its floating capability.

Today sticks are available in all flavours, colours, sizes and formulations but they suffer from a significant disadvantage ... the cost per unit of mass and especially per unit of protein is normally very significantly higher than a similarly formulated floating koi food pellet. One possible reason for this is the incremental freight component (although I doubt this very much) because the bulk density of sticks is lower than that for pellets. I suspect the real reason is that manufacturers, distributors, retailers and any other party in the chain all make higher profit margins on the back of marketing investment going back many years and which still remains today.

Next time you think of buying sticks just do a quick comparison calculation as follows ... make sure you use consistent units which means use pounds or ounces, kilograms or grams but not a mixture

For Sticks

Weight of pack = WS
Price of pack = PS

Cost per unit weight = PS/WS

For Pellets

Weight of pack = WP
Price of pack = PP

Cost per unit weight = PP/WP

Compare the 2 answers and you might find a big difference.

Varying pack weights between sticks and pellets is a well known "trick" of making pricing comparisons very difficult for most busy shoppers.

You will probably also find that protein content of the stick is lower than that for pellets which always counts in favour of buying the pellet from a cost/benefit perspective.

I used to sell both sticks and pellets ... I only sell pellets these days.

Amazing Water Gardens: How To Build A Waterfall By Dan Eskelson

2005-07-06T08:16:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: How To Build A Waterfall By Dan Eskelson

How To Build A Waterfall By Dan Eskelson

2005-07-06T08:14:00.000-04:00

The number one, most asked question that I receive about water features is "How do I build a waterfall?" The first advice I give is to visit natural waterfalls or at least look at photos. Don't try to memorize just how they look...just get a general idea how the water flows around and over the rocks.

The design of your falls will depend on topography, pump and pipe size, length of water flow from pump to falls, pond size and possibly other site-specific factors. If your pond is just 4' x 6', you certainly don't want a large, three foot wide falls - keep the elements of your water feature in scale.

One of the most common mistakes results from the desire for a tall waterfall at a level building site...large amounts of soil are imported to build the falls up to a three or four foot height. Yes, you will achieve a dramatic waterfall, but the total effect will look more like an out of place volcano. A falls of just two feet will produce a very satisfactory effect both visually and audibly.

On a level site, with an "average" size pond of 11' x 16', the amount of soil needed to surround the biological filter and create the berm is just about equal to the amount of soil excavated from the pond...it works out quite well. To further enhance or enlarge the berm, you may want to import a little more soil, large boulders or other features.

If you are working on a slope, you have the option of placing the biological filter (waterfall source) uphill from the pond and creating a series of cascading waterfalls. This is how I built my falls, described in the photo essay here: http://clearwaterlandscapes.com/pondphotos.htm
It was definitely an exercise in visualization to determine exactly how the water would flow down the falls. I made a slight underestimation of the total flow and could have widened the falls somewhat, but the effect is very acceptable.

Even on a level site, it's a good design strategy to place the falls six to eight feet from the pond. This will create a short stream to the pond.

Be sure to use a wide EPDM rubber liner under the falls and/or stream...this will allow for twists and turns in the course of the water and also contain splashing. A ten foot wide stream liner is recommended. Underlayment under the falls and stream liners is usually not required.
When your excavation is complete for the falls, and liner is in place, add your stone. Don't be in a hurry - try several (or many) combinations and visualize how the water will flow.

When satisfied with your arrangement, use black waterfall foam to direct the water over the stone instead of under it. That is, stone that is directly in contact with the liner should sit on a bed of foam so the water goes around or over the stone instead of underneath it. Caution - the foam expands greatly...don't use too much! Though it requires some creativity and patience, building a waterfall is extremely satisfying.

Though you should give some time to preliminary research, you'll learn most by actually building your water feature - just do it! You'll find that your water garden is the most relaxing and enjoyable part of your yard.

About The Author

Visit Our Site for Interactive Landscaping Solutions.
Plan and Visualize Your New Landscape Online.
You're an Essential Part of the Design Team!
http://clearwaterlandscapes.com/
support@clearwaterlandscapes.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Choose between Goldfish and KOI

2005-07-02T09:43:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Choose between Goldfish and KOI

How to Choose between Goldfish and KOI

2005-07-02T09:42:00.000-04:00

Many people have asked us over the years "Should I add goldfish or KOI (or both) to my pond? The answer is "it depends."

Goldfish are better suited to smaller water gardens and ponds, in the 50 - 500 gallon range. Goldfish are extremely hardy and easy to care for, which makes them the perfect choice for the new pond owner or water gardener.

KOI Feeding

KOI, on the other hand, require a little more knowledge and better water quality in most cases, than goldfish and are better suited to the more experienced pond keeper. KOI generally thrive best in ponds over 500 gallons (the bigger - the better.)

This is becuase KOI can grow quite large and therefore require more water in the pond for proper biological breakdown of waste. KOI are also more expensive (and harder to replace) than goldfish, so this should also be taken into account before filling your new pond full of KOI fish.

More considerations...

Goldfish are an excellent choice for the average water garden that is usually also full of a variety of potted plants. Lilies, Lotus, Iris, and submerged annuals - these all do well in a water garden pond with goldfish. Goldfish will not disturb the plants, and will enjoy playing around under the lily pads without disturbing the plants.

Pond Goldfish

Japanese KOI on the other hand, and especially the larger ones, will often create a huge mess out of submerged potted plants. They seem to enjoy 'digging' in the soil of the plants and sometimes even knocking them over. This all leads to added mess in the pond, and can create a real problem for the pond owner.

Generally, it's best to not have submerged plants in large pots, when also keeping KOI. The ideal KOI pond is much deeper than the average water garden, so the necessity for plants to help with water quality and shade is reduced.

However, if you still do want to keep potted plants in your KOI pond, we recommend wrapping netting over the tops of the pots, to keep the fish from digging in the pots. Another thing you can do is to top the pots with 1" of pea gravel, and then larger river stones or similar over that. The KOI will not be able to get past the larger rocks.

As far as mixing Goldfish with KOI, this is fine and very common, we've just tried to highlight the most important differences between the two and between the average water garden and KOI pond. Feel free to experiment with both, and then decide which fish is more to your liking.

***********************************************************
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 6,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, visit
MacArthur Water Gardens

This article courtesy of http://amazingwatergardens.com.
You may freely reprint this article on your website or in
your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author
name and URL remain intact.

Amazing Water Gardens: Building Liner Ponds

2005-07-01T11:57:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Building Liner Ponds

Building Liner Ponds

2005-07-01T11:56:00.000-04:00

Surprisingly enough, it is usually in mid-summer that many gardeners begin to think about installing a small pond or water garden. Ponds don't need to be weeded or watered, and they can supply exuberant color in the form of water lilies and bog plants.
The sound of a splashing fountain or waterfall is more appealing than weeding a flower bed or mowing that section of lawn. Best of all, no matter how hot or wet it gets, the pond just keeps on blooming!
At this point you may start to think about the expense and labor of installing a concrete pond, and our 95 degree days are just about enough to stop this pond daydream in its tracks.
However, with the advent of newer pond liners and pre-formed pools, the misery associated with concrete mixing and finishing is a thing of the past.
Heavy duty pool liners with 10 year guarantees are now common, and can sell for as little as $1.00 a square foot.
Preformed ponds in many different shapes and sizes are also an alternative method to create a quick pond at less cost than using concrete.
Using these materials, the average gardener can install a decent size pond in less than one day, and have it stocked with plants, fish and fountain by the following morning.
The simplest kind of pond to build is an above-the-ground pond. Since no digging is required, it usually takes much longer to fill this pond with water than it does to build it!
There are many variations on this theme, but as an example, one can use treated lumber planks which are at least 2 inches thick by 12 inches wide, nail them together to form a rectangular shape of the desired dimensions, and place the form where the pond is desired.
This bottomless "box" can be placed directly on the grass, concrete, a deck, etc., and then the bottom is covered with some kind of padding or cushioning material. Most books say to use sand, but I think the perfect material is roofing felt. It is cheap, convenient, lies flat, makes a barrier to weeds, and provides a good cushion for the pool liner.
Once the roofing felt is in place, the pool liner can be dropped into the form and you begin filling the pond with water. A few staples on the outside of the pond form may be needed to keep the liner from blowing into the pond, but be sure to use just a few, and place them at the edge of the liner.
As the pond fills, the weight of the water will do a good job in smoothing out wrinkles, but if you are a perfectionist, you can help smooth them out by hand before there is more than one inch of water in the bottom of the pond.
While the pond is beginning to fill, you can check the level of the form, and if it needs to be raised a little on one or two sides, this can be done by carefully inserting some shims to raise the forms where needed.
If you prefer the pond to overflow on a certain side (like, into the flower bed, rather than onto the deck!) then you may want to leave the overflow side a quarter inch lower than the rest of the pond.
You should wait until the pond is completely filled before cutting any excess liner or doing any permanent stapling. This will give the water pressure enough time to pull the liner into every nook and cranny where it needs to go; some of those few holding staples which you used to hold the liner in place may actually tear loose as the pond fills, but if you stapled the liner on the outside of the form, near the edges, then no harm is done... you will be trimming some of that excess liner off, anyway.
It really does take longer to fill this kind of pond than it does to build it. I once built a twenty-by-thirty foot pond in two hours but it took all night for it to fill with water.
I think an ideal depth for an above ground pond is about 14 inches, but it can be deeper or more shallow than that, depending on what materials you are using for the form. Railroad ties, landscape timbers, concrete blocks, etc. are all possible materials for pond building.
Remember that any kind of wood must be pressure treated if you want it to last more than a year! Although I mentioned rectangular shape, if you have some carpentry skills, you can also do triangles, pentagons, ponds within ponds, etc.
Ponds built with treated lumber planks do not need any side support if they are less than 8 feet or 10 feet long; if you are building larger than that, you will want to drive a stake into the ground where the planks are to be nailed together, so the water pressure won't make the planks bow outward.
So, if you know how to use twelve nails to nail four planks together, then you can build a pond. If you are feeling lazy, have the lumber yard cut the planks to size you need. Borrow your neighbor's staple gun, find those scissors buried in the kitchen drawer, and you are in business!
Pond liners can also be used to make an in the ground pond. The advantage is that you can make any shape pond you want, and the ground itself supports the sides of the liner.
It is a good idea to use a flexible garden hose to lay out the pool shape you want. Once everyone agrees that it is a pleasant shape, and it is large enough, you can dig a trench along side the hose, and start digging.
Remember, the pool does not have to be more than 12 to 16 inches deep, so don't get carried away. If you want a waterfall, some of the excavated soil can be mounded up near the pond for later waterfall construction. In some cases, it may be useful to use some of the soil for a berm around the pond, so that is another way to dispose of excavated soil.
Once the pond is excavated, check the level, decide which side you want excess rainfall to flow from, and then you are ready to line the hole with roofing felt, running it across the pond, up the sides onto the edges of the pond. Drop the liner in, weigh it down lightly with some rocks around the edges, and start filling.
Again, do not trim any excess liner until the pond is completely filled. Some pond books say you should create a shallow shelf in the pond before putting in the liner, but they don't have our river sand and rainfall to deal with.
I think it is better to build the pond to a depth of 14-16 inches, and just use bricks to prop up those bog plants that don't want to sit too deep in water. This gives greater flexibility in rearranging the pond plants as you wish, and avoids the calamity of a shelf suddenly slumping into the pool.
When using pool liners, whether in the ground or above the ground, it is important to conceal the edges from sunlight, since that is what eventually breaks down most liners.
Using stones or lumber planks to finish off the edge of your pond will make it more appealing, and enable the liner to live up to its ten year guarantee. Even the heavier, preformed plastic ponds should have their edges covered by sod or some paving material, so the sun can't reach it.
Some final pointers: if possible, locate your pond away from trees, in a place that gets at least five hours of direct sun daily. This will allow you to grow a wide variety of pond plants.
Be sure to use a dechlorinating product when you first fill the ponds... the new chemicals in our drinking water do not dissipate quickly and they will kill your fish and damage your plants, even ten days after you have filled the pond!
Be sure you are pleased with the size and shape of your pond before you start - so you won't say "I should have made it bigger, or longer, or rounder, etc.", within two hours of filling it!
Rule number one in pond building is that no matter how big your pond is, you always want a bigger one.
Last, but not least, if you decide to do an in-the-ground pond, why not serve refreshments and get some friends to help . . . friends will have all kinds of useful ideas on how you should do it ... which is fine, as long as they keep digging...

***********************************************************
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites.
He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader
circulation of over 6,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter
and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, visit
MacArthur Water Gardens

This article courtesy of http://amazingwatergardens.com.
You may freely reprint this article on your website or in
your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author
name and URL remain intact.

Amazing Water Gardens: Pond Tour to Benefit The International Waterlily and Water Gardening Society

2005-06-30T06:28:00.001-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Pond Tour to Benefit The International Waterlily and Water Gardening Society

Pond Tour to Benefit The International Waterlily and Water Gardening Society

2005-06-30T06:28:00.000-04:00

Harleysville, PA July 15, 2004 -- Pond and water garden enthusiasts may pick up and pay for their pond tour guide book at Fins, Feathers, Paws & Claws, Inc. during store hours until the day of the event. Tour participants can then use the maps and follow signs to tour the eleven water gardens, in any order, on their own on July 18 between the hours of 10:00 am – 4:00 pm. Participants are encouraged to ask questions and take photographs during their tour. From 5:00 to 7:00 PM tour participants can meet back at the store and enjoy refreshments, meet an IWGS representative, meet with other pond enthusiasts, enjoy special savings at the store and watch the presentation of the monies earned from the pond tour guides at 6:00 pm.

Ponds and water gardens hold a special attraction to people of all ages. The excitement of a waterfall, the sound of splashing water and the tranquil setting to view floating water lilies and colorful fish all add to the appeal. Don't miss this opportunity to see the captivating creations of outstanding water gardeners in this area. Enjoy the beauty; get ideas for constructing or maintaining your own water garden; and share experiences with other pond owners.

This pond tour is a benefit for the International Waterlily and Water Gardening Society (IWGS), a non-profit corporation organized to promote all aspects of water gardening and associated plants and support the education, research, and conservation in these areas.

Additional information about IWGS can be found on the IWGS website, www.iwgs.org.

To learn more about the pond tour visit their website at www.finsfeatherspawsclaws.com or contact Paige Bluhm.

This article courtesy of http://amazingwatergardens.com.
You may freely reprint this article on your website or in
your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author
name and URL remain intact.

Amazing New Pond Water Filter – Attaches Directly to Your Garden Hose, and Instantly Removes Harmful Chemicals like Chlorine and Chloramine - Before T

2005-06-29T08:34:00.000-04:00

August 23, 2004 -- The new PF-100 pond water filter was developed specifically for pond owners. This unique new water filter design attaches to any standard garden hose or faucet, and instantly removes harmful chemicals like Chlorine, Chlorine, and Ammonia. Best of all, pond owners never have to worry about adding de-chlorinator again.

The new PondFresh PF-100 was designed specifically for pond owners.
This unique new water filter attaches directly to your garden hose and removes harmful chemicals from your tap water, including:

• Chlorine
• Chloramines
• Heavy Metals
• 45 other VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds)

Featuring the Aquaspace Compound
The PondFresh PF-100 uses a state-of-the-art filtering media, originally developed by NASA for use in it's space program. We had this filter designed for us by Aquaspace Water Filters, who has the exclusive license for using this technology.

Here are some other benefits:

• Easy to use!
• Compact and easy to store!
• Removes harmful chemicals Instantly!
• Reduces stress on your fish!
• Lasts up to 1 Year or 20,000 Gallons!
• Provides Drinking Quality Water!

If you would like more information about this product, or to schedule an interview with Brett Fogle, please call 1-800-695-4913 or email bfogle@bellatlantic.net

Brett Fogle
Tel. 1800-695-4913
Cell: 561-650-5105
Email: bfogle@bellatlantic.net

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-06-28T14:10:00.001-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

Fish Health in Hot Summer Heat by Brett Fogle

2005-06-28T14:10:00.000-04:00

Summer is over, but for many of us - the heat remains. Here a couple of things to do to keep your fish healthy and your pond clear going into winter.
First, remember to keep your pond well aerated. This is very important to your fish because the pond water actually holds less oxygen at higher pond temperatures. So if it's still hot in your part of the country, keep those waterfalls and fountains running! This will keep your pond water full of oxygen, and reduce stress on your fish.
If you see your goldfish or KOI gasping at the surface, it's a good sign that you don't have enough dissolved oxygen in the water, and this can be dangerous. Especially if you have a lot of green water algae in the pond. This algae can absorb much of the oxygen in the pond water at night and cause very low dissolved oxygen levels during the day - which can be deadly to fish!
One thing we recommend this time of year, is to do a partial water change. Drain off 10 - 25% of your total pond volume, and replace it with fresh, new dechlorinated water. If possible, vacuum or drain decaying organic matter and debris off the bottom to reduce the ponds bio-load.
Your fish will usually be vibrant and playful after a water change. It's like giving them a 'breath of fresh air' and invigorates them. Again, we only recommend a 10 - 25% water change right now - but feel free to experiment with whatever works best for your pond.
Remember to re-add your pond salt whenever you drain and add new water. Having a salt water test kit is also helpful, or a digital salinity meter, to determine optimum salt levels.

About the Author
***********************************************************
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites.
He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader
circulation of over 6,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter
and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, visit
MacArthur Water Gardens

Amazing Water Gardens: Give Your Garden a Rippling Effect: Add a Tranquil Pond by Mary M. Alward

2005-06-27T15:46:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Give Your Garden a Rippling Effect: Add a Tranquil Pond by Mary M. Alward

Give Your Garden a Rippling Effect: Add a Tranquil Pond by Mary M. Alward

2005-06-27T15:43:00.000-04:00

A pond is a landscaping tool that creates a tranquil, relaxing retreat in which to unwind after a busy day – a tranquil haven where all of your stress will disappear.

A pond will bring your garden alive. It will transform a still image in to one that is full of life. You will enjoy abundant wildlife that visit, including birds, butterflies, dragonflies, frogs, toads and other small creatures that are attracted by the sound of moving water.

A love of nature and gardening will help you keep your garden environment in balance while you’re designing your garden pond. Even if you are inexperienced in the subject of water gardening, you will be able to create a project that will bring a touch of nature’s magic into your garden.

Your pond will be your garden’s focal point; the centerpiece where all the main activity is focused. Beautiful blossoming water lilies will rest among lush lily pads while goldfish glide through the water. Watch dragonflies circle over the pond and perch at the water’s edge to lay their eggs. Your pond garden will be a tranquil, soothing place where blooming plants and wildlife will create an enchanting natural ecosystem.

While a pond can be totally self contained, it will be more successful if it is coupled with a bog garden. The plants used will provide opportunities for aquatic flora to flourish, as well as decorate the area around your pond. Plants included in your bog garden will allow you a unique opportunity to grow flora that would be impossible to develop in any other type of garden.

If your space is limited, or if a traditional pond is too large, container water gardens can be created. A half barrel fountain converted into a pond where gnomes rush and pygmy water lilies flourish makes a profound accent for your garden. If a barrel isn’t your idea of an attractive container, use old sinks, livestock watering troughs or a bathtub, covered in mosaics to create a unique container water garden.

When you are choosing a site for your pond, siting and safety are very important. The site is crucial to the success of your pond. It must be in a position to be highly visible and ecological factors must be considered. Plants won’t prosper unless the pond’s profile is suitable.

The materials that you use to construct your pond must be able to fulfill all the requirements that will be placed upon it. If you don’t know, ask. Mistakes made while creating your pond are difficult and expensive to correct.

Though the construction of a garden pond takes a lot of care and consideration, most gardeners have the ability to complete the project. The most important aspects in pond construction are ensuring that the structure is secure and watertight and that the pond is suitable for both the fish and the plant life you plan to incorporate into it. If you wish your garden pond to be successful, careful planning is essential. The site should be positioned so there will be no interference with electricity or water supplies.

Pond liners are the most popular for creating garden ponds and they come in a wide range of materials. They allow you to design the pond in any shape you choose and add a very influential bog garden. However, lines are very susceptible to damage. Construction must be handled delicately in order to keep risks minimal.

Pre-formed ponds place some limitations on your imagination, as they are rigid. They can be used to create a delightful pond for those who aren’t as particular about shape. Shop around to see what shapes are available before making your selection.

The best quality fabric to use for the pond’s liner is the bentonite blanket. It is a new concept and has been used very successfully. It enables the method of clay puddling in a totally new form. The blanket is a specialized clay layer between geo-textile fabric that allows you to line the excavation site with natural clay, but without the problems associated with traditional clay puddling.

Whatever technique you choose, be sure to shop around at nurseries and water garden shops to get the best deal for your supplies. The professional staff will also be happy to suggest the plants that will best suit your project. Before you know it, the project will be finished and you will be spending your evenings enjoying the soothing sounds of water.

About the Author
Johann Erickson is the owner of Online Discount Mart and TV Products 4 Less. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article. He is also a contributing writer for sites such as Helpful Home Ideas

Amazing Water Gardens: How To Build A Waterfall By Dan Eskelson

2005-06-25T08:13:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: How To Build A Waterfall By Dan Eskelson

How To Build A Waterfall By Dan Eskelson

2005-06-25T08:11:00.000-04:00

The number one, most asked question that I receive about water features is "How do I build a waterfall?"

The first advice I give is to visit natural waterfalls or at least look at photos. Don't try to memorize just how they look...just get a general idea how the water flows around and over the rocks.

The design of your falls will depend on topography, pump and pipe size, length of water flow from pump to falls, pond size and possibly other site-specific factors. If your pond is just 4' x 6', you certainly don't want a large, three foot wide falls - keep the elements of your water feature in scale.

One of the most common mistakes results from the desire for a tall waterfall at a level building site...large amounts of soil are imported to build the falls up to a three or four foot height. Yes, you will achieve a dramatic waterfall, but the total effect will look more like an out of place volcano. A falls of just two feet will produce a very satisfactory effect both visually and audibly.

On a level site, with an "average" size pond of 11' x 16', the amount of soil needed to surround the biological filter and create the berm is just about equal to the amount of soil excavated from the pond...it works out quite well. To further enhance or enlarge the berm, you may want to import a little more soil, large boulders or other features.

If you are working on a slope, you have the option of placing the biological filter (waterfall source) uphill from the pond and creating a series of cascading waterfalls. This is how I built my falls, described in the photo essay here: http://clearwaterlandscapes.com/pondphotos.htm

It was definitely an exercise in visualization to determine exactly how the water would flow down the falls. I made a slight underestimation of the total flow and could have widened the falls somewhat, but the effect is very acceptable.

Even on a level site, it's a good design strategy to place the falls six to eight feet from the pond. This will create a short stream to the pond.

Be sure to use a wide EPDM rubber liner under the falls and/or stream...this will allow for twists and turns in the course of the water and also contain splashing. A ten foot wide stream liner is recommended. Underlayment under the falls and stream liners is usually not required.

When your excavation is complete for the falls, and liner is in place, add your stone. Don't be in a hurry - try several (or many) combinations and visualize how the water will flow.

When satisfied with your arrangement, use black waterfall foam to direct the water over the stone instead of under it. That is, stone that is directly in contact with the liner should sit on a bed of foam so the water goes around or over the stone instead of underneath it. Caution - the foam expands greatly...don't use too much!

Though it requires some creativity and patience, building a waterfall is extremely satisfying. Though you should give some time to preliminary research, you'll learn most by actually building your water feature - just do it! You'll find that your water garden is the most relaxing and enjoyable part of your yard.

About The Author

Visit Our Site for Interactive Landscaping Solutions.

Plan and Visualize Your New Landscape Online.

You're an Essential Part of the Design Team!

http://clearwaterlandscapes.com

support@clearwaterlandscapes.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Amazing Water Gardens: How can I get my mature koi to spawn?

2005-06-04T07:42:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: How can I get my mature koi to spawn?

How can I get my mature koi to spawn?

2005-06-04T07:41:00.000-04:00

I have been a koi keeper for five years now and I haven't bought any koi for the last three years. My pond is approximately 3,000 gallons and has nine koi.
They are all between three and four years old and range from 20cm to 45cm in length. Everything is running very smoothly at the moment, the filters are well matured, the fish feed well and are happy and healthy. I am now at the stage where I would like to take on a new challenge. I would like to start breeding my own koi but I'm not really sure how to go about it. I have read some books on the subject but I still feel as though I need a lot more information. Can you help me out?

It sounds as though you have a fine collection of koi that are ideal candidates for spawning. Assuming that you have a mix of both males and females, your koi will by now be sufficiently mature to spawn. There are a number of practical things you need to consider before embarking on the path of becoming a surrogate koi farmer. Furthermore, you should be aware of the limitations you are likely to face, which hopefully will temper your expectations. The koi that are in your pond will respond to environmental cues in the same way as career broodstock do in Japan, so where possible, to help you understand the spawning process, I will touch on some tricks that the professionals use when farming koi.

To breed or not to breed?
Now that you are looking to breed your mature koi, you will hopefully have taken into account the risks involved.
Many koi keepers do not wish their koi to breed, as the spawning event is quite stressful for koi. Unlike at all other times, koi are not graceful or reserved in their spawning behaviour. If males significantly outnumber ripe females then females in particular can become quite exhausted and physically damaged as the males drive and bash at the swollen females in their attempts to expel their eggs.
This can lead to loss of scales and permanent scarring and when I used to farm koi, I had regular contact with a number of koi keepers who wanted their females to be induced and stripped artificially to release their eggs in a controlled manner. Many of these females already exhibit damage from previous spawning activity. On the more positive side, you have the opportunity of increasing the number of koi in your pond, tapping into the genetic and biological potential of your own koi.

What makes koi spawn?
I am a little puzzled as to why your pond full of mature, healthy koi has not already spawned spontaneously in the preceding years. They are no more likely to spawn next year by you simply wishing them to do so. Once you have identified the key spawning triggers, you will have to intervene accordingly in order to stimulate a spawning response.

Koi spawn in late spring/early summer in response to environmental stimuli which signal that their environment will provide their fry with the physical conditions and natural food supply so crucial for their good growth and survival. Even though koi are in-bred selected descendants of wild carp species, they have retained this biological clock from their ancestors, and it is something we can capitalise upon when trying to stimulate them to spawn.

Two key factors that stimulate koi to breed are water temperature and day length (photoperiod). These stimuli work in tandem to influence when koi spawn. Water temperature will fluctuate at comparable dates from year to year, whereas photoperiod is far more consistent. I.e. We know that June the 21st will be the longest day each year but that temperature will fluctuate year on year and is not as predictable as day length (especially up in Lancashire!). The overall effect of these interactions means that koi will spawn at different times all over the country (or perhaps not spawn at all).

It is the increasing day length that has the greatest effect on maturing the female's eggs, with water temperature having more of an effect towards the time of spawning. Koi are happiest to spawn at about 20 degrees C or on subsequent cooler mornings once these temperatures have been achieved. The final trigger for spawning may sound obvious, but once the females' eggs are ripe, the factor that finally causes the eggs to be released and spawning activity stimulated is the presence of males. By keeping the sexes separate, commercial farmers can prevent spontaneous spawning events, but unfortunately, in your pond, you are likely to experience (or even miss) a spontaneous flock spawn.

Problems with a flock spawn.
Besides the risk of physical damage, a flock spawn immediately limits your productivity as a koi breeder. As soon as a female koi releases her eggs into the pond, there is a 30 second window of opportunity for the sperm (which are now heavily diluted in your pond water) to fertilise the eggs. After that, as the eggs swell by taking on water, the micropyle (small duct) through which the sperm will fuse with the female genetic material will close. This will lead to an overall drop in fertility rates, having a knock-on effect for the fry numbers.

A flock spawn also impacts upon the quality of fry produced. The specimen varieties that we stock in our own ponds are the product of crosses between similar koi varieties. The probability of achieving something similar in a spawning free-for-all in a koi pond is greatly reduced. So in realistic terms, you should aim at producing viable fry that you can grow on (irrespective of their livery). Don't expect these fry to resemble any recognised varieties, as this can only really be reliably achieved by spawning known parents under controlled conditions.
Why are your koi not spawning spontaneously at the moment?

Having farmed koi for over 7 years, experience shows that you need to have complete control over all of the environmental stimuli to have a chance of being successful. By doing so, you can virtually guarantee a spawn. In a garden pond however, you have to accept the environmental conditions provided naturally, often with unpredictable results. The natural conditions will of course prove more difficult in the north of England, compared with the south. You can however, increase your chances of spawning by manipulating your pond's temperature at 2 key periods in the calendar year.

Autumn-Winter. Koi that experience a cold period (4 Degrees C or below for 1 month) have been shown to spawn more reliably the following season. Ensure your koi experience 1 month of ambient temperature through the winter.
Spring-Summer. Once you have reset their biological clock to 'zero' (by giving them a cold period), you can now increase their chances of spawning by heating the pond from mid February onwards, achieving a minimum of 15 Degree C each day. Again, experience shows that if koi experience 1000 degree days (see Boxout), they are likely to spawn. This certainly works for professional carp and koi farmers who make this strategy the backbone of their farming husbandry.

Allowing your koi to experience 1000 degree days.
The water temperature is raised gradually, held at 15 degrees C and your koi are subjected to a lengthening photoperiod.

The golden rule in maturing females is to subject them to 1000-degree days. That is, 3 days at 15 degrees C = 45 degree days and so on. A tally of degree-days should be kept to ensure that at least 1000-degree days are achieved prior to spawning. Once achieved, koi are likely to spawn. Give them a final helping hand by bringing your pond temperature up to 23 Degrees C.

Spawning time.
Once your pond approaches the 1000 Degree Days mark, you can add spawning media (soft rope/woollen mops) onto which your koi will deposit their adhesive eggs. These can then be later removed as your koi will soon help themselves to the eggs (and later on - the fry).

Fry rearing.
Even for the professional koi breeder, raising fry is the most challenging part of farming koi. This is certainly the experience for most koi keepers that experience an unplanned spawn. The short notice does not allow sufficient preparation which means that many thousands of eggs will only become hundreds of fry. Ultimately only a handful of homebred koi will reach fingerling size. For this reason, if the hobbyist is keen to breed from their collection, they must provide the eggs and fry with suitable conditions to hatch and grow out in.

Quite paradoxically, the best environment for fry to flourish is in a green, unfiltered but natural pond, full of microscopic zooplankton. It is often resistance against such an 'unsightly' pond that results in only a handful of fingerlings being produced in the same pond as the broodstock. Stocking fry into 'stew ponds' is the method used by commercial koi farmers grow on their fry in both the UK and Japan. If you have any spare clay-based land, then dig yourself a fry pond; it will certainly increase your yield.

As an encouragement, it must be remembered that each year even commercial breeders produce many thousands of very poor, low-grade fry similar in appearance to those produced by accident in koi ponds each year. The difference being that the commercial breeders start off with many more and are able to cull hard, ensuring that only those fish exhibiting good characteristics make it to market. As koi keepers, we should be thrilled with any extra home grown koi that we can produce, being loathed to cull any of them.

So in conclusion, it is a little mystifying why your mature koi have not already spawned in your pond. As one of the key factors is water temperature (a likely limitation in sunny Lancashire!), by investing in a pond heater and using it wisely and strategically, your chances of spawning koi in your own pond will increase. However, be well aware of the risks and limitations involved. We should be realistic when trying to breed koi and raise fry in the same pond, being happy to see only a handful of fry reach 2-3" in their first year, irrespective of their coloration or pattern which are likely to be disappointing.

This article reproduced by permission of Ben Helm from the website dealing with detailed answers to koi pond problems

Amazing Water Gardens: Want to Build a Pond?

2005-05-30T13:24:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Want to Build a Pond?

Want to Build a Pond?

2005-05-30T13:23:00.000-04:00

by Robert Dorrance

A pond, logically, the first question you should ask is WHERE? Do you have a huge yard with a lot of trees and shrubs and flowerbeds? In other words what is the present landscape like? Would you prefer your pond in a sunny spot or in the shade? That may not seem too important, but if you should decide to surround your pond with flowers, it becomes very important. It seems (to me at least) that there are many more varieties of flowers that are sun lovers rather than ones that prefer shade. Another consideration also is that if you place your pond too near to trees, then falling leaves become a cleanup problem.

Once you’ve decided on a location, then the next question is HOW BIG? Do you want a small pond that will only need a few hundred gallons to fill, or something more like what you see in the pictures that accompany this text that holds around three thousand gallons? Do you have a water spigot close enough to your pond location so that you don’t need three hundred feet of hose to fill it?

If you are going to have a pond with a pump and filter to re-circulate the water, then you will need an electrical source nearby. Are you thinking of having a water fall or fountain? Do you think that you are going to want fish or other aquatic life in your pond?

Will you need a fence? Does your city or township require fences or any other kind of safeguards around ponds? If there are no local ordinances in this regard, then how about your own personal feelings about keeping such an area safe for small children, who all seem to love water and gravitate to it like bees to honey?

Where is the one really good spot in your yard where you love to sit and commune with nature? If you have a spot like that, then that is probably the perfect place for your pond. Just sitting and watching a waterfall or fountain is very relaxing, and if you’ve decided to liven up your private little lake, then choose fish like Koi, Comets, and Shabunkins which seem to be quite hardy specimens. They winter well, even here in northern Ohio. We haven’t lost one fish to the weather in the eight years we’ve had our pond.

Now, as to the basic “hardware” needs. Set your mind to having a strong liner, even if it’s more expensive. This is the key to a trouble free pond. Firestone makes a liner material called EPDM PondGuard that is tough and very puncture resistant. (Holes in the liner are a real pain in the neck!). Besides the liner, you’ll need a submersible water pump, a pond filter, a UV light (sometimes called a UV filter), and a few pond plants.

Just some things to think about before you build your pond.

Robert Dorrance has had a pond for the last eight years and would like to share his experiences with you. Be sure to come by and download the free e-book, How To Build A Beautiful Backyard Pond. Find out more at http://www.Backyard-Pond-Guide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Amazing Water Gardens: Koi Pond Aeration

2005-05-28T00:46:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Koi Pond Aeration

Koi Pond Aeration

2005-05-28T00:45:00.000-04:00

by Robert Dorrance
To achieve Koi pond aeration, there are some things you can do. One, you can go to your local hobby store or pet supply store and purchase one of those small air pumps, hook some tubing to it, along with an air diffuser or sometimes called an air stone, and place it in your pond. I still have the original one I bought about eight years ago, and it’s still working. This has run for almost eight years non-stop, they are very durable. It works two fold, one, to supply air to the pond water and, two, it helps to keep a hole open in the ice during the winter.

Another way to obtain Koi pond aeration is to have different kinds of under water pond plants such as Anacharis and Hornwort. These plants will grow and spread out very well under water. Just kind of put them in small bunches in the bottom of your pond. Just so you know if your plant them in some kind of pot, chances are very good that your Koi will pull them out. Koi are always tugging and uprooting something.

Waterfalls also provide a great way to help aerate the Koi pond. By constantly having water running down a waterfall and crashing into the pond, will help naturally aerate it.

The combination of all the above suggestions will give you the results you need for proper Koi pond aeration.

Robert Dorrance has had a pond for the last eight years and would like to share his experiences with you. Be sure to come by and download the free e-book, How To Build A Beautiful Backyard Pond. Find out more at http://www.Backyard-Pond-Guide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Amazing Water Gardens: What is happening in my pond in spring?

2005-05-27T21:03:00.001-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: What is happening in my pond in spring?

What is happening in my pond in spring?

2005-05-27T21:03:00.000-04:00

Springtime presents us with the perfect opportunity for checking the condition that winter may have left our pond in and to look forward to the summer by carrying out any necessary maintenance, nurturing our koi out of their winter slumber.

As a pond leaves the perils of the winter behind in preference to the 'green shoots' of spring, it undergoes a period of rapid transformation, especially if it is planted. The fish and pond have had the rest that nature intended and now is the time to ready the pond so it can navigate its way through this in-between period of aquatic no-mans-land - namely early spring. A risky period for koi and an important time to support them as required so they can make the seamless transition from winter inactivity to summer growth and vitality.

Recognising that koi are slaves to their environment, and that pond conditions determine a koi's metabolic rate and behaviour, it is vital that we use this last opportunity to set the stage for the coming growth season.

What is happening to a pond in springtime?
It is helpful to take a koi's-eye-view of a pond's environment when assessing what effects specific water characteristics may have on a koi's physiology. By doing so, before we look at what is happening to their pond in springtime, we should also look at what they've experienced through the preceding winter months.

Before rolling up your sleeves and getting stuck in to your pond, test your pond water while the koi are still not actively feeding, as this will help you set your agenda for pond maintenance and give you some indication as to how the winter went.

Two key parameters to test are pH and nitrate (as you would expect ammonia and nitrite to be zero with your koi not be feeding over winter). The pH can have a tendency to drop close to 7 over winter through the diluting effect of several months of rain and snow. As koi prefer a higher pH of around 8, topping up the pond with treated tapwater or adding a source of calcium carbonate will soon restore the correct pH.

Nitrate levels too are likely to have risen over the winter period because months of breakdown of organic matter and the products of fish metabolism (all be it very slow) are likely to have led to an accumulation of nitrates. If the nitrate level has risen to above 50ppm, then carry out a water change with water of a lower nitrate concentration.

Perfectly clear?
Your pond's water will be at its clearest over winter and early springtime because the short days and cold temperatures will have prevented algae from growing. Furthermore, if you opted to reduce or even turn off the flow rate in your pond over winter, any suspended debris will have had the chance to settle.

However, spring is the season of lengthening days and warmer weather and your impressive clarity may deteriorate in a matter of weeks. Any accumulation of nutrients, coupled with increased sunlight and warmer weather is a recipe for nuisance-algae, whether green water or blanketweed. Furthermore, if a fine covering of silt has settled on your pond bottom, the combination of increased koi activity and pond turnover is likely to stir it up, spoiling your pond's appearance.

Now is the time to act. When the pond's temperature is below 10oC, fish are still inactive and you are able to see the pond's bottom. Use a pond-vac (either buy or hire from your aquatic store) to meticulously remove the settled silt from the pond bottom. If silt remains on the bottom into the summer, this will act as a source of nutrients throughout the season, fuelling algae growth for months.

Once the water temperature rises consistently above 10oC, changes really start to take place and there is no looking back. It is important to use this sub-10oC window of opportunity wisely, getting the pond right (both aesthetically and biologically) so that your koi will also be right for the oncoming season.

How do changes in koi activity in spring affect your pond?
Imagine the 8-10oC temperature range as starting gate. As soon as koi pass through this, their activity changes and so does the character of the pond- hopefully for the better- but sometimes for the worse.

As soon as the water temperature rises above 10oC, koi naturally become more inquisitive and active as their metabolic rates increase, demanding more food to service their energy requirements.

The beneficial bacteria that feed off ammonia, nitrite and organic wastes produced by koi also become more active as the temperature starts to rise. They require a food source and a beneficial temperature for them to multiply and recolonise the pond and filter to a stage that they can keep on top of the task of processing all of the waste that the pond produces. If these wastes (that are directly attributable to the quantity of food entering the pond) are allowed to overrun the bacteria's limited ability to break them down, they will accumulate to a level where they become toxic to fish and hazardous to their health. Another potential hazard for koi at this time that already poses many risks for their well-being.

An effective way of breaking in the pond's bacteria while adequately meeting the koi's increasing yet limited energy requirements is to offer them a low protein diet. Consequently, the koi consume and digest the majority of the food offered efficiently, keeping waste production to a minimum, helping to maintain a stable pond environment.

As koi rise out of their slumber, so too will pathogenic bacteria, parasites, viruses and fungi. These opportunistic organisms will have survived the barren winter conditions in low numbers, multiplying rapidly under the favourable conditions of a rising temperature and weakened koi. When your koi start feeding and coming to the surface, it is a good opportunity to have a close look at each of your fish. As each koi is unique, each will have over-wintered to a different degree. Most will emerge intact and in good condition, while others may have large external parasites attached or may have developed sores or ulcers, attributable to them by sitting on the pond bottom. Other common symptoms include fin or tail erosion or wax-like growths caused by a koi pox virus - a springtime phenomenon.

Being aware of the heightened threat from disease during these 'in between' temperatures, we can add a broad-spectrum treatment (usually a formalin and malachite green-based solution) to reduce the density of these disease-causing organisms. A repeated dose at the correct temperature can prove to be very supportive to your fish until their immune system becomes more effective in warmer temperatures. For the rest of the year, healthy koi are well able to protect themselves from disease.

How to keep your koi pond healthy in spring.
Keeping the pond healthy is the secret behind keeping your koi healthy, and in spring when things can change so rapidly, the emphasis is placed on keeping a check and control on that change so that things do not get out of hand.

The water.

Keep a record of the water temperature to check when it rises consistently above the magic 8-10oC threshold. Be sure to carry out major maintenance before this temperature is reached. As your koi will increasingly demand and digest food above this temperature, keep a regular check on the water quality, particularly ammonia and nitrite.

The Koi.

Each of your koi should rise out of their slumber and show interest in the food you offer. Watch out for any koi that remain huddled and disinterested on the pond bottom. Manually check the condition of each fish by netting and bowling them individually. Even though the temptation is great, resist from feeding your koi too generously as this will ultimately affect the water quality. For the first few weeks of feeding, only offer food in conjunction with water testing. Only continue to feed if ammonia and nitrite readings are zero.

What jobs need to be done in springtime?
Test your pond water. This will give you an indication of the state of your pond after its seasonal break. Test specifically for pH and nitrate.
Change the UV bulb. Unlike a biofilter where the media will remain and be effective for many years, the UV bulb must be replaced each year to keep green water controlled. Spring time is the most logical time to replace the bulb as it's hardest work will be in the first 4 or 5 months of the season. Even if your current bulb appears to illuminate, its output will have deteriorated from last season, making it less effective against green water. Fit a new bulb now and you can forget about it for another 12 months.
Filter. If your filter has been turned off or even turned down over winter, it will have accumulated a good degree of solid matter. Springtime (sub-10oC) is a superb opportunity to carry out major maintenance as you are able to get away without upsetting its function (unlike summer filter maintenance).

Amazing Water Gardens: Water Gardening, Spring and Toads

2005-05-26T22:37:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Water Gardening, Spring and Toads

Water Gardening, Spring and Toads

2005-05-26T22:34:00.000-04:00

Things are getting busy. Old clients are ringing me up with this and that problem. As the biological activity creeps into life in the their pools, so do they –some of them the are very old – the pools and the clients.

Here in the UK we have had the sunniest March that I can ever remember. It hasn’t been particularly warm but it has been bright. The effect on the gardens has been pretty much the same as last year when it was incredibly dull, but warm. Weathermen, or the meteorologists reckon that most things have been emerging at approximately two weeks prior to what they would have done 20 years ago. Pondwise that figures, because back in 1982, I remember building a pond on a very grand estate that was surrounded by a wall. This wall, at the lady client’s request, was hollow and was designed to be a ‘Toad Hotel’! It had cat proof entrances on the lawn side and pond side. It had recreation areas and sleeping areas and general lounging around doing toady things areas. All areas were duly checked for cleanliness and removal of builder’s rubble by her ladyship before the ‘hotel’ was capped before the deadly deadline of March 19th . This was the date, she insisted was the day that the toads went on the march for their annual gross orgy. But as you who have been receiving earlier newsletters know, that I have been reporting amphibious activity as early as February, so I should think there have been some pretty early bookings at that old ‘Toad Hotel’.

But what are these problems that seem to be affecting ponds in the UK? Well most of them are like the ‘lawn mower syndrome’, where the lawn mower sits in the garden shed for 5 months having been put away after the last mow of the season with all the good intentions of giving it a good clean and service before Christmas. Well, Christmas comes and goes and so does the opportune time for the first cut of the year. Eventually it emerges squeakily from the garden shed and if it doesn’t just manage one or two bronchial coughs in response to your efforts to get it started, but instead bursts into life with all the eagerness of the of the promise of spring, it suddenly dies a death the moment it is put face to face with the task at hand.

Yep, machinery and Sod’s law walk hand in hand through the history of our tormented lives, and pond pumps, filters and U/V clarifiers are that sort of machinery. Waterfalls and fountains can be included. If you didn’t put your pool or pond ‘to bed’ at the end of the year by cleaning and checking the pump, the filter and the U/V then you’ve only got yourself to blame when you switch it on and “ it don’t work!” So of you didn’t do it then, and even if you seemed to have escaped the hand of fate for this year, still give it a thorough check out. Check the trip switch on the outside electrics first. Then have a look at the pump. Take it apart and give it good clean. If it is one of those cylindrical cellar type pumps with the open grill round the bottom, you will probably find it gunged up with tadpoles. Not a pretty site. (You might want to devise a sort of prefilter - but that’s a story for another day). Work your way to the U/V and change the bulb. From thence to the filtration unit and see what delights have been nestling in that through the winter. The very least it will need is a backflush. If you haven’t got this facility, you will have to get all the filter medium out and give it a quick wash through, with rain water or pond water. I have a leaky bucket that is almost like a colander that I rinse the filter medium in.

If the filter has been working fairly non-stop through the winter you will be surprised at how dirty it is. This was because the biological activity in the filter would have slowed to virtually nothing at low temperatures, but the filter would still be working effectively mechanically. This would mean a build up of sludge without it being digested.

If you have a stream or waterfall, check this for leaf litter and silt build up. The dry spell we have just experienced is a great time for spotting leaks and overspill in the surrounding soil. People with preformed waterfall units will need to check that their units are still well supported underneath as they very often get undermined in heavy rain. If the stream or waterfall has been constructed on made up ground, before the undergrowth around the stream build up, check around the inlet to make sure there is no overspill or consolidation that has caused the back of the waterfall to drop down.

Apart from maintenance (or lack of it) problems, the main thing is the blanket weed, spirogya, cotton weed – whatever. It is the candyfloss type of algae that gets a start on the rest of the plantlife in the pool and just loves that bright sunlight. It also loves water with a high pH. So if you reduce that with proprietary chemicals, although I have a client experimenting with vinegar, you will find that any other treatments are a lot more effective. Most aquatic suppliers have some remedy. Barley straw is effective for certain periods as long as the water is very well oxygenated and the straw is changed at regular intervals of not more than 10weeks. Certain of my colleagues tell me that Bartley straw actually ‘pollutes’ the water in order to clear it and that there are compounds on the market that remove nutritional elements that blanket weed in particular thrive on. Phosphates are the main culprits and many of these come from ‘run off’ from the surrounding soil. Once again these remedies wont work in situations where the pH is above 8.5. When the product comes at well over £30 a tub for one seasons treatment, you don’t want to be effectively pouring money down the drain just because you pool has got ‘hard’ water.

Amazing Water Gardens: Pond Filter

2005-05-24T22:46:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Pond Filter

Pond Filter

2005-05-24T22:45:00.000-04:00

by Robert Dorrance
A pond filter is one of the most important components for your pond, without one your pond water would get really mucky. The kind you need depends on its size and whether or not you have any fish.

Filters come in different sizes and varieties. You can get external, submersible, bio and others. They range in price from 40 or 50 dollars, all the way up above $1500.00 and more.

Having a pond filter is not the only thing you need to have nice clear water. You also need a UV filter and plenty of pond plants, especially in the summer when it gets really warm. The three components above, all work together to give you nice clear water.

An important aspect of having a pond filter is having an area in the filter that can capture and grow good bacteria to help maintain the waters proper balance. This is where pond filter media comes into play. The bigger the total area that can capture and grow this good bacterium, the better off you are. Pond filters use different things in their filters to promote this bacteria, from sponge like material, to bio balls, and a polyester knit material, which I use, and also sell if your interested.

This should give you a better idea about the importance of a pond filter.

Robert Dorrance has had a pond for the last eight years and would like to share his experiences with you. Find out more at http://www.Backyard-Pond-Guide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

How to Choose Plants for Your Water Garden

2005-05-20T12:36:00.000-04:00

How to Choose Plants for Your Water Garden
Proper plant selection is one of the most important secrets for successfully designing a water garden. There are many types of plants available for use in a garden pool. Both floating leafed and submerged plants are required for a healthy pond and need to be included in your selection. Water garden plants can be divided into three major categories: - EMERGENT PLANTS They are also called marginals. These plants are found along the edges of a pond where the roots are attached to the muddy bottom and portions of their stems are above the water. The common examples are - cattails, iris and pickerelweed. The other kind of emergent plants are those that are further from the edge, between shallow and deep water and whose roots are attached to the bottom, having floating leaves above the water. Water lilies fall into this category. Bog plants are another type of emergent plants. Most of them are not grown for their flowers. However, some like water lilies and lotus are particularly dramatic while blossoming. Those who are not able to locate their water gardens in sufficient sunlight to support good plant growth should go for Bog plants because some bog plants can tolerate as little as three hours of sun and can still remain healthy. Many bog plants grow in moist to damp soils, while others actually grow in standing water. There are many different species of bog plants with varying heights, textures and foliage colors that add height and drama to water gardens. Lotus, Sagittarius, dwarf bamboo, iris, cattails, and sweet flag are some examples. SUBMERGENT PLANTS Submerged plants are those that for the most part remain beneath the water surface. They are often referred to as oxygenators. These plants help combat algae by consuming excess nutrients while simultaneously providing cover for fish and producing oxygen during daylight hours. Roots of these plants are not used for nutrient or water uptake, but only for anchorage. Because of this, many submerged plants are potted in gravel. Submerged plants are accumulated at the rate of about one bunch per two square feet of water surface area. If the pond contains fish, which tend to scavenge on submerged plant flora, then locking up these plants would be beneficial. FLOATERS Floaters are not rooted in the soil, but are allowed to float freely above or below the water surface. They augment the display of water lilies and lotus and add a finishing touch to the water garden. They are the "ground covers" of a water garden. They may be restricted by a structure to prevent them from moving around or allowed to float freely with the breeze. This produces a constantly changing look to the water surface. Some floaters are very fruitful and may need to be kept in check by scraping out excess plants on occasion. Duckweed, water hyacinth, and water lettuce are some examples of the floating variety of plants. For more tips, ideas and other water garden resources visit http://www.amazingwatergardens.com

Water Garden
Originally Posted on 5/20/2005 11:35:46 AM
Content source: Manual Entry

How to Choose Fish for Your Water Garden

2005-05-20T05:53:00.000-04:00

How to Choose Fish for Your Water Garden
So your water garden is ready? Its finally time to make it look more refreshing and stunning. So to make your water garden more attractive, add to it, some beautiful and colorful fishes. Fishes, being an ornamental factor for any water garden, should be chosen with forethought, keeping even the minute details in mind. To help you chose the right kind of fish for your water garden here are some tips- As the weather plays an important role in choosing the type of fish, one needs to pay a lot of attention to the season factor. In the winter season one should choose fishes, which can handle low temperature and do not require special feed or care. Shubunkins and Comets are perfect examples that you can chose. If you wish to maintain your pond for a short while, then fancy fish, such as Orandas and Ryukins can be ideal choices. They are prone to more health problems and are less tolerant of extreme winter temperatures. Though they can live in outdoor ponds, they cannot swim fast enough to get away from predators. Therefore these fishes can be preferred, if you wish to maintain your water pond only for a few months. The most popular fish for a water garden is koi. Though it requires high maintenance, excellent water quality and deep water (about 3 ft). It should be kept without aquatic plants, as they tend to uproot water lilies or eat their new growth. Koi being an eye-catching fish would be the main attraction for your fishpond. Also, Goldfish, golden orfe, and different types of fantail fish do surprisingly well in a both indoor and outdoor ponds, giving a striking look to your water garden. But before adding some new fish, there are some crucial steps to be kept in mind, which are as follows- Make sure the water is chlorine free. The plastic bag containing the fish should be kept in a shady area to avoid the fish getting too warm. Allow your fish to adjust to the change in temperatures by placing the bag into the water and leaving it for a of couple hours. Allow the water in the bag to adjust to your pond water temperature. After reaching the proper water temperature it is advisable to further acclimatize the fish by opening the bag and allowing some of your pond water to enter the bag. This will allow the fish to adjust to the pH of your pond. Too much a difference between the water temperature and pH can make your fish harassed. In winter season place a small heater in your pond thereby preventing the water to freeze over. Bring your fish inside an aquarium if the very temperature is too low. Control the number of fish in your pond and avoid over feeding. These are some of the considerations that you should watch out for, if you want that fish should live well in your water garden. For more tips, ideas and other water garden resources visit http://www.amazingwatergardens.com

Water Garden
Originally Posted on 5/20/2005 4:53:24 AM
Content source: Manual Entry

How to Keep Your Water Garden Algae Free

2005-05-19T22:06:00.000-04:00

How to Keep Your Water Garden Algae Free
Summers are here and its time for you to make your surroundings green and cool. Think about your own water garden and imagine its beautiful fragrance, the water lilies, and colorful fishes and sitting around its refreshing water. But with an excellent garden comes proper maintenance, and algae can be your perfect enemy. Wherever there is light and water you will find algae. Algae are simple types of plant life ranging from microscopic specks to seaweed. So take steps and kill your enemy before it makes your water garden green and unhealthy. To help you with this, here are some perfect steps to make your water garden clean, clear and algae free- BACTERIA We all have heard about the survival of the fittest and bacteria are the natural enemy of algae. It starves the algae by consuming the available nutrients thereby competing with it, and will cut off the sunlight needed by it to flourish. Thus you can have an algae free water garden / pond. PLANT BALANCE Make sure your pond is balanced with just the right number of plants. Underwater plants and floating plants help in removing the excess nutrients by absorbing them for their own growth. Also 2/3rd surface of the pond should be covered with water lilies, floaters (like Water Lettuce or Water Hyacinth). Other plants that provide shade to the water surface can also be used, reducing the amount of sunlight, keeping the water cooler and algae free. PROPER CONSTRUCTION By constructing the water garden properly, water can be kept relatively algae free. In addition to this, a pond should have about 40% of its surface area for the deep zone, (which is at least two feet for a water garden).30% should be an intermediate depth of 1-1½ to 2 feet and the remainder 30% at least 1-1½ feet deep. For easier removal of debris from the pond one should provide a slight slope at the deepest level. Also a pond should be constructed in a way that rainwater does not flow into the pond becoming a major cause of algae growth. In case the pond is already constructed alter the area around the pond to make sure that runoff water does not flow into it. MECHANICAL FILTERS Mechanical means also can be employed to control algae. Activated Charcoal/Carbon Pond Filters are very effective and can easily be added to all ponds. Filters keep the decomposing material to a minimum, lowering the quantity of nutrients thus providing less food for the algae to grow. A Pond Sweep will remove the silt and sediment that collects on the bottom. Ozone generators and UV light sterilizers aid greatly in ponds where fish are fed - killing fungus, parasites and algae and pollutants such as gas. In case you use a pump, size your pump to turn the pond over at least once every 2 hours through the filter. Also operate the pump for 24 hours a day. Though mechanical devices can be helpful, avoid over dependence. Though they destroy the algae they also destroy every other microorganism in your pond. CONTROL YOUR FISH Another reason of excess floating algae is the number of fishes you have in your pond. The ideal way of fish control is to make sure that for every square feet of water, there should be one fish. Too many fish can cause waste accumulation at the bottom of the water garden creating the perfect environment for algae to grow. A filtration system will aid in the cleansing of the water. If you consider the above points with caution, you will surely have your water garden algae free, blooming in the summer breeze. For more tips, ideas and other water garden resources visit http://www.amazingwatergardens.com

Water Garden
Originally Posted on 5/19/2005 9:06:36 PM
Content source: Manual Entry

How to Choose and Find Rocks for Your Water Garden

2005-05-19T20:59:00.000-04:00

How to Choose and Find Rocks for Your Water Garden
When all the essential parts of a water garden are in place, the last task is choosing, finding and using rocks in your water garden. Look for rocks in various shapes and sizes from your neighborhood. Since these rocks are from the area, they will blend nicely into your garden. If you cant find enough, then purchase the rocks. They should be fitted into small holes into the ground, so that they cant move around. Unstable rocks are risky because they can slip and crush the plants. Moreover, use larger rocks at the bottom of your garden, and then scatter smaller rocks to add stability. Make sure that the rocks and stones placed in a liner do not tear or puncture it. The bowl at the end of the water return stone is what makes the water come out in different flow patterns, and determines the rate, width, and location of the actual waterfall itself. Small sized rocks can be placed inside the bowl to amend this, but you need to have the bowl properly cut in the first place. To give a natural look, make sure to use the fragments of the type of stone used for the waterfall stone. Place bricks or flat stones like slate along the edge to give a stylish effect. Simply lay these around the pond, over the edge of the liners. Flagstones can be used to make the bottom most layer in the water garden. It should extend beyond the shelf bulge anywhere from 2 to 5 inches. Creating an illusion of depth, than the actual depth. Use a hammer and chisel to knock off pieces of the flagstone so that the shelf fits as tightly as possible. Small Granite stones, ranging from 10 to 50 pounds in weight, are very important for making your water garden attractive and would affect its style of formal vs. informal. Cobblestones should be used to attain as much coverage of visible liner as possible, without piling it on top of itself. A mixture of hand held boulders and cobblestones would give a very fine look to the garden. Pea gravel, scooped out by using a shovel, can be spread out amongst the cobblestones and hand held boulders. It should be used so as to fill in the space in-between the rocks, and at the same time, trying not to cover the cobblestones. It can also be used to fill in the spaces in any patio or walkway. You can create a beautiful look by placing several non-porous stones of about 50 pounds in the area of the platform, to highlight the return water rock. Finally when all the rock is laid down, you can completely fill the water garden for the first time. Once the pump is started, place some smallish stones in the water return stones bowl. Experiment with rock placements in the stones bowl area until you find the effect that you want. For more tips, ideas and other water garden resources visit http://www.amazingwatergardens.com

Water Garden
Originally Posted on 5/19/2005 7:58:51 PM
Content source: Manual Entry

5 Ideas for Planning Your Dream Water Garden

2005-05-19T20:06:00.000-04:00

5 Ideas for Planning Your Dream Water Garden
A water garden is much more than a hole in the ground with water in it. It is an area where fishs swim and water lilies dance. Water gardens have a great soothing effect and provide an exclusive new look to homes. The best part is that they can be built in a single weekend. Thus, building a water garden is everyones dream. Here are some ideas that can enhance your outdoor living space with a water garden. Firstly, examine your expectations. That is what kind of a water garden are you looking for- a fish pond, a fish and water pond, a fountain or a waterfall. You need to decide whether your pond should be the central point, standing out dramatically, or just a place where you can relax and meditate. Properly planned water gardens achieve an ecological balance of water, plants, fish, and snails. Secondly, you need to think about the location considering the following- Sunlight: - A water garden with plants and fishes requires about six hours of sunlight. Sun provides the perfect setting for plants as they can synthesize their food in sunlight. Drainage: - Good drainage is very important for maintaining a water garden. However, care must be taken that insecticides, herbicides or roof chemicals, which may be harmful to plants and fish should be thoroughly flushed out from the water garden. Eaves, Trees, Plants - Ponds should be located away from the eaves of the house, overhanging trees and dirty plants such as bamboo or pyracantha because dripping toxic chemicals can be harmful to the water garden. Block Walls Or Barriers - Healthy ponds require good air circulation, so they should not be built against block walls, wall barriers or houses. Wind - High wind locations bring dirt, leaves, paper, and other trash into your pond, which can clog and silt the water garden. Wind problems can be solved with design, skimmers, pumps, and plants. Thirdly, you need to decide the size and shape, and choose the material for the garden. A container with a capacity of 15 to 25 gallons is suitable. The all-natural western red cedar can be chosen because its eco-friendly, durable and flexible without the dangers of chemical treatment. The inside of the container should have dark green, charcoal or black colored polyethylene liners because they give the container an impression of greater depth, discourage algae growth and make algae less obvious when present. Fourthly, insert the actual container contents such as decorative plants, rocks and flowers. Adjust the depth of your plants by placing blocks or bricks under the pot so the crown of the plant is at the preferred depth. About 50 to 60 percent of the water surface should be covered with plant material. If the water is chlorinated, then allow the chlorine to evaporate by letting the container sit for 24 to 48 hours before adding plants. Finally, make sure that the plants, water and sunlight balance together to hold algae in check. When water evaporates, replace it with chlorinated water from the top, which helps control algae. For more tips, ideas and other water garden resources visit http://www.amazingwatergardens.com

Water Garden
Originally Posted on 5/19/2005 7:06:40 PM
Content source: Manual Entry

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2005-05-17T05:56:00.000-04:00

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Amazing Water Gardens: Back Yard Ponds

2005-05-12T20:22:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Back Yard Ponds

Back Yard Ponds

2005-05-12T20:21:00.000-04:00

by Robert Dorrance
Backyard ponds are a great source of fun and enjoyment. With them come all kinds of different nature. From the fish and all of the other wildlife, to all the different pond plants and flowers. It truly is a relaxing hobby, once you get it all set up.

Backyard ponds are not extremely hard to build, and once you do, they’re pretty easy to take care of. The hardest part, by far, is the digging of the pond. Depending on what kind of soil you have in your region will determine how difficult it would be.

The kind of pond to have is entirely up to you. From a small preformed one, to one that’s several thousand gallons that needs a liner, or anything in between.

Try and picture where you sit the most while you’re outside. Now picture where a great place to put a pond would be. Is it a flat area? Is it close to an electrical supply? Is it close to a water source? These are just some of the questions you need to answer, if you’re going to have one of these backyard ponds.

If you’re going to have a pond of any size, you should know of some of the things that you’re going to need for it. Things you must have are a water pump, a pond filter, a UV filter, and some pond plants. Other things to consider are a good pond liner, some fish, an air diffuser, some pond lighting, fish food, and a skimmer.

These are some of the things to consider if you want to have a pond. Initially, they can be kind of expensive, however, you will get a lot of enjoyment, as many other people do from their backyard ponds.

Robert Dorrance has had a pond for the last eight years and would like to share his experiences with you. Find out more at http://www.Backyard-Pond-Guide.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Amazing Water Gardens: Landscaping ponds ideas for that uneven ground?

2005-05-11T06:01:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Landscaping ponds ideas for that uneven ground?

Landscaping ponds ideas for that uneven ground?

2005-05-11T05:54:00.000-04:00

Landscaping ponds, tips in getting it right.
Building backyard ponds using flexible pond liners built in uneven ground using flexible pond liners or building raised ponds with flexible liners.
When you are building a back yard pond things are not so simple when part of the pool edge emerges above the level of the surrounding landscape, or if the water garden design has placed the main pool in loose soil or made up ground.
Landscaping ponds like this can be tricky.

Landscaping ponds - marking the datum peg
Landscaping ponds - checking heights and levels

Landscaping ponds:
To have a pool brimming with water whether the pool is ground level or raised. Tips and tricks for creating pond edging at same time.

This simple pool has a skeleton of blockwork laid onto a thick mortar mix straight onto soil.
A granite set edge is supported by the blockwork whilst the liner comes up behind the sets. In this way, the water level in the pool can be maintained almost flush with the top of the edging stones.

1. For the main pond of the water garden, establish a datum peg at some point that will mark the water level of the pool. Normally this will be a piece of 2x2 driven into where the pond will be deepest. There should also be an indelible mark on it at the bottom end that will mark the final depth of the excavation.
2. Excavate the pool area as much as necessary to make a level space in which you can drive in several more pegs to the same level as your datum peg. These can roughly mark the deeper area inside the marginal shelf.
3. Several more can be driven in to mark the level of the marginal shelf area and the rough shape of the pool. If you are intending to face the inside of the pool with stone work or brickwork ensure your marginal shelf area is wide enough to support this whilst leaving enough for plants to sit in baskets
4. Use the datum peg and several intermediary ones level with it around the excavation as reference in laying a blockwork framework. In loose soil or made up ground, this blockwork will need a footing into consolidated soil.
The shape of the pool must be marked on the ground. From this line outwards by at least 4 inches (10cm), a small 4 inch (10cm) deep trench for a footing must be excavated and filled with a semi-dry concrete 5:1 mix of 'All-in' ballast and cement powder. The width of this footing depends ultimately on the thickness of the facing stone or brick that the water feature is intended to have on the inside of the pool or the outside.
5. If the pool emerges from the ground to its full depth, the marginal shelf needs to be constructed from blockwork too and backfilled with sub soil. This will be the skeletal structure for your pool, which will be lined with sand and underlay (particularly on the upright blockwork) and can be faced outside and inside and then with your choice of materials.

Take a look at Peter May's Perfect Pond Recipe book .... available by download or print and full of self explantory sketches

Amazing Water Gardens: Add some splash to your garden with a fountain

2005-05-09T06:06:00.001-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Add some splash to your garden with a fountain

Add some splash to your garden with a fountain

2005-05-09T06:06:00.000-04:00

by Johann Erickson

One great way to add character to a garden is to add a fountain. Fountains, also called water features and water elements, can add elegance, a sense of peace or a feeling of fun to nearly any landscape design. The sound of flowing or trickling water is comforting and relaxing for most people, so it helps make the environment inviting. In addition, practitioners of feng shui often suggest fountains for enhancing energy flow.

When selecting a fountain, it is important to consider the personality of the space you want to decorate, as well as the effect you would like to create. Fountains are available in a myriad of sizes, materials and designs so the possibilities are limitless. Some fountains are built into the landscape, while others are self-contained and can be placed nearly anywhere.

The centerpiece fountain
A centerpiece fountain is usually most appropriate for a large outdoor space. Consider using a centerpiece fountain as a focal point for your garden design. Often centerpiece fountains are sculptures consider them as works of art and choose a fountain that you will enjoy and that makes you feel good to view. Usually centerpiece fountains are made of stone, cement or resin.

A large fountain can be used in a smaller place such as a patio garden, but only if the primary use of the space is not impeded by the fountain's placement. For example, if children play in the space or groups of adults gather for drinks and barbecue, a fountain in the center is probably a bad idea. However if the patio is used for reading, tiny gatherings, or just observing the sunset, a fountain may be the perfect accent.

Waterfalls
While small waterfalls can be self-contained units, most waterfalls are integrated into the landscape. Waterfalls are ideal for a landscape that has a hill or slope. In some waterfalls, the water flows in a stream downhill. In others it falls from one plateau to another lower one. As the water lands, it has a lovely spray and satisfying sound. Often waterfalls have a pool at the base the pool may be used for fish such as koi, or decorative water plants. Usually, waterfalls use a plastic liner for the base along with natural elements for the sides of the waterfall.

Tabletop fountains
Small fountains suitable for a tabletop or pedestal stand are also popular for gardens. Tabletop fountains are ideal for a small space to which you want to add a decorative accent and lovely sound without spending a lot of money. They are easy to maintain and move, so if you are unsure of the ideal location for your fountain, this may be your best bet. If you are looking to get the most fashionable type of fountain, then mist fountains may be just what you are looking for. They give off a light mist, that not only is a great humidifier, but looks more beautiful than just a trickle of water does. Tabletop fountains are also great for indoor atriums and make great gifts for those who love gardens. The smallest tabletop fountains have footprints of only a few inches, others are up to a couple feet across. Tabletop fountains can be made of stone, metal, resin or plastic.

Wall fountains
If you are tight on space, wall fountains may be ideal for your purposes. Wall-mounted units are usually fairly small and can be hung from a fence or wall. These water features come in varying styles to look like artwork, natural elements or other structures.

About the Author
Johann Erickson is the owner of Online Discount Mart and TV Products 4 Less. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.

Amazing Water Gardens: Planting a Container Garden

2005-05-08T14:15:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Planting a Container Garden

Planting a Container Garden

2005-05-08T14:14:00.000-04:00

by Johann Erickson

If you are a person not blessed with a big sunny backyard, you need not be deprived of the joy of gardening. You just need to think on a smaller scale. The perfect solution…container gardening. Container gardening is an extremely versatile method of growing not only colorful flowers, but also herbs and even some fruits and vegetables. A container garden is especially ideal for apartment dwellers that often don’t enjoy the luxury of owning any “green space” of their own. The beauty of container gardening is that they generally require minimal effort and maintenance and yet still yield beautiful results. Whether you choose to display your plants inside your home or even as an additional feature to a bigger gardening area, container gardening is a beautiful addition to any home or garden décor. With a few simple steps you too can experience the joy of growing the garden of your dreams.

Choosing the right container

Just as there are a countless number of plants to choose from, there are just as many containers to grow your plants in. Whether you choose an elaborately decorated window box or opt for more simple terra cotta pots, your choices really are endless. It just depends on your own personal sense of style. There are some things to keep in mind, however, when choosing a container. Avoid containers with narrow openings or that are small in capacity. Small containers restrict the growth of plants and their roots and are prone top drying out very quickly. Make sure your pot allows for adequate drainage. If your favorite container has no drainage holes drill some into the bottom spacing them about ½ an inch across. If hanging baskets are your preference then line the containers with moss to increase water retention. Wooden containers are lovely but are prone to rotting. If you have your heart set on a container made of wood, try redwood or cedar, as they are more durable and relatively resistant to rotting.

Choosing your plants

Although annuals tend to be the most popular choice for planting, virtually any plant can be grown in a container, form shrubs to tomato plants. Don’t be afraid to experiment and try planting things that are pleasing to you. Some things to remember are to pick the right plant for the right container. For example, don’t choose a plant a shrub or an ornamental tree in a small container. Bigger plants need bigger pots for their root system to grow properly. Also, if mixing plants in the same container, make sure they have the same light and water requirements. For example, don’t plant a sun-loving plant like roses with a shade loving plant like hosta. Also keep in mind bloom times. Don’t pick a combination of tulips, a spring-bloomer to be planted with autumn blooming mums. Other things to keep in mind are the mixing of colors, size, and texture. As much as it’s fine to experiment you do always want to pay attention to the symmetry and balance of the container you’re planting.

Planting your container

When putting your container garden together, fill it to within ½ inch of the top with a commercial potting mix. Do not use garden soil from your yard because it will not drain fast enough and will also pull away from the sides of the container when dried out. Potting soil is specifically designed for container gardening and often contains organic matter which helps retain moisture and also nourishes your plants. After removing your plants from their pots, gently loosen the roots and place them into your soil. Be sure to arrange them in a design that is pleasing to your eye. In containers you can place your plants closer together than you normally would to create a more lush and fuller looking plant. Add more potting soil to fill in and finish by giving your plants a good drink of water. Be aware that because there is a relatively small amount of soil in container gardens their tendency is to dry out. Therefore, be diligent about providing enough water once, and sometimes twice a day, if necessary. It is also a good idea to add a time-release fertilizer at the time of planting. Just follow the manufacturers instructions on quantity and application.

General Care

Because container gardens lack the nutrients that garden plants naturally obtain from Mother Nature, they do require some special care. Be diligent about watering always checking for signs of dehydration and add a water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks. Also, inspect your plants for any signs of diseased or damaged leaves and remove as necessary.

For more garden decor tips please visit us at Helpful Home Ideas.

About the Author
Johann Erickson is a contributing writer for sites such as Helpful Home Ideas. Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.

Amazing Water Gardens: Landscaping ponds ideas for that uneven ground?

2005-05-06T06:11:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Landscaping ponds ideas for that uneven ground?

Landscaping ponds ideas for that uneven ground?

2005-05-06T06:10:00.000-04:00

Landscaping ponds, tips in getting it right.
Building backyard ponds using flexible pond liners built in uneven ground using flexible pond liners or building raised ponds with flexible liners.
When you are building a back yard pond things are not so simple when part of the pool edge emerges above the level of the surrounding landscape, or if the water garden design has placed the main pool in loose soil or made up ground.
Landscaping ponds like this can be tricky.

Landscaping ponds - marking the datum peg
Landscaping ponds - checking heights and levels

Landscaping ponds:
To have a pool brimming with water whether the pool is ground level or raised. Tips and tricks for creating pond edging at same time.

This simple pool has a skeleton of blockwork laid onto a thick mortar mix straight onto soil.
A granite set edge is supported by the blockwork whilst the liner comes up behind the sets. In this way, the water level in the pool can be maintained almost flush with the top of the edging stones.

1. For the main pond of the water garden, establish a datum peg at some point that will mark the water level of the pool. Normally this will be a piece of 2x2 driven into where the pond will be deepest. There should also be an indelible mark on it at the bottom end that will mark the final depth of the excavation.
2. Excavate the pool area as much as necessary to make a level space in which you can drive in several more pegs to the same level as your datum peg. These can roughly mark the deeper area inside the marginal shelf.
3. Several more can be driven in to mark the level of the marginal shelf area and the rough shape of the pool. If you are intending to face the inside of the pool with stone work or brickwork ensure your marginal shelf area is wide enough to support this whilst leaving enough room for plants to sit in baskets
4. Use the datum peg and several intermediary ones level with it around the excavation as reference in laying a blockwork framework. In loose soil or made up ground, this blockwork will need a footing into consolidated soil.
The shape of the pool must be marked on the ground. From this line outwards by at least 4 inches (10cm), a small 4 inch (10cm) deep trench for a footing must be excavated and filled with a semi-dry concrete 5:1 mix of 'All-in' ballast and cement powder. The width of this footing depends ultimately on the thickness of the facing stone or brick that the water feature is intended to have on the inside of the pool or the outside.
5. If the pool emerges from the ground to its full depth, the marginal shelf needs to be constructed from blockwork too and backfilled with sub soil. This will be the skeletal structure for your pool, which will be lined with sand and underlay (particularly on the upright blockwork) and can be faced outside and inside and then with your choice of materials.

Take a look at Peter May's Perfect Pond Recipe book .... available by download or print and full of self explantory sketches

Vegetable (Veggie) BioFilters For Gold Fish and Koi Ponds

2005-05-05T06:05:00.000-04:00

Most pond plants with submerged leaves produce considerable oxygen during the day. Underwater freshwater garden pond plants reduce nutrients on which pond algae feed
Vegetable BioFilters ... Aquatic Plants For Gold Fish and Koi Ponds
The idea of using vegetable filters (also called veggie filters is an area where plants are deliberately grown en masse) to remove algae for Nitrate control and green water control is not new by any means. It has found use in systems where people do not want or cannot afford UV systems.

Concerns expressed about vegetable filters include blocking of pump impellers by stray roots and leaves. Some plants would be worse than others ... eg water hyacinth. Despite this they are excellent nitrogen removers.

An ideal plant to use is Azolla also called Fairy Moss. It grows extremely quickly and is capable of removing large amounts of nitrogen and of course carbon through photosynthesis. It is also easy to remove simply by netting in the event it over-runs the filter area.

Duckweed is another plant that can be used for this purpose as well as being an occasional food and dietary supplement item for gold fish and koi. Water cress has also been used very successfully ... in fact any quick growing leafy plant is good for this purpose of converting nitrate, phosphate and carbon into bio mass.

Plants For Natural (Vegetable) Pond Filters recommended by Peter J May

The Norfolk reed (Phragmites australis) is by far the best since it not only removes pollutants but is capable of adding oxygen to the water ... ie it is an oxygenator plant too. Oxygenators are generally those plants whose leaves are always submerged so that oxygen from the photosynthesis process has a chance to dissolve before being lost to the atmosphere.
Other useful plants are generally in the fast growing class so that maximum biomass is created in the quickest possible time. Consider the following ...

Sweet Galingale (Cyperus longus)
Soft Rush (Juncus effusus)
True Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris)
Flowering Rush (Butomus umbrellatus)

Water cress has also often been used

For a detailed article on how to make vegetable filters for garden ponds see Peter article here

Amazing Water Gardens: Landscape design ideas ... Visions of turning your landscape design ideas into successful projects?

2005-05-04T20:33:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Landscape design ideas ... Visions of turning your landscape design ideas into successful projects?

Landscape design ideas ... Visions of turning your landscape design ideas into successful projects?

2005-05-04T20:32:00.000-04:00

Building raised backyard ponds using preformed pond liners - installation techniques to suit your landscape design ideas

Landscape design ideas: Showing footings for the blockwork that will support the pool liner and the facing stone. Landscape design ideas If the backyard water garden or garden pool is going to be raised or partially raised:

Place the pool liner in position and mark out the shape on the ground around it.

Carefully remove any turf within the shape and excavate to a level soil surface slightly larger than the shape. A long spirit level, or a spirit level with a long straight edge is essential.

The shape of the pool to satisfy your landscape design ideas must be marked on the ground plumb with the outside edge.

From this line inwards 2 ins (5cm) and outwards by possibly 4 inches (10cm) a small 4 inch (10cm) deep trench for a footing must be excavated and filled with a semi-dry concrete 5:1 mix of 'All-in' ballast and cement powder.

The width of the footing depends ultimately on the thickness of the facing stone or brick that the water feature is intended to have.

If the pool is to be partially set in the ground (landscape design ideas?), the base of the pool should be marked on the ground and the resulting shape excavated to the required depth at which the base should be flattened and levelled.

Take a look at my Perfect Pond Recipe book .... available by download or print and full of self explantory sketches

Landscape design ideas: Concrete blocks laid in place to support the fibreglass pool and the facing stone

A 4inch (10cm) concrete block wall will be built up to support the rim of the pool. A line of concrete blocks is sufficient to support the pool out of the ground at marginal shelf level. The depth of a standard concrete block (9ins or 23cm with mortar) generally corresponds the depth of most manufacture's pools at the marginal shelf. Two high, they correspond to the complete depth to the base. Slight variations can be taken up with a layer of brickwork or thick mortar joints. Leave the vertical joints of the block work partly open to begin with, in order to facilitate the backfilling with sand.
With the block work in place, replace the liner on a thin 1 inch (25mm) cushion of sand. If it seems well supported fill it with water. Flimsy liners can filled to the marginal shelf level.
Leave it there full of water over night to do any settling that might occur, before you attempt any edging. If it shifts - empty it and build up the sand support where it has sunk. Gently ramming down the backfill further at the lowest point can make up tiny fractions in subsidence. If you need to do this don't overdo it because it can buckle up the rim of the liner, which you want to keep as flat as possible to take whatever edging you might want to choose to go round it. As you backfill the pointing to the upper parts of the blockwork must be completed
The facing stonework to the pool can be started at any point using the blockwork as support. You could alternatively use a wider block (6inch or 15cm) and just render the face of the blocks with cement. With the stonework built level, and edge can be laid in place. 'Profile edging' or segment paving saves cutting slabs, or in natural stone, crazy paving is most popular.
That's it your landscape design ideas now complete.

Take a look at Peter May's Perfect Pond Recipe book .... available by download or print and full of self explantory sketches

Amazing Water Gardens: Landscape ponds the right way.

2005-05-03T05:58:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Landscape ponds the right way.

Landscape ponds the right way.

2005-05-03T05:57:00.000-04:00

Pegging is the procedure to follow to landscape ponds on uneven ground.
For fish ponds or garden ponds on uneven ground, peg the pond out before you make the final decision about where and how big it will be.

Tools required to landscape ponds on uneven ground:
3foot straight edge. This could be a good piece of timber (perhaps 2inches by 1inch) that has an un-curved, unwavering edge to it as you look along the edge from one end to the other.

A very heavy hammer.

As long a spirit level as you can find. A 'Dumpy' builders level can be hired from a tool hire merchant. These need two people to operate them, but they help you find levels very accurately and are indispensable for a large landscape ponds project. Levels that shoot out a spot to a level some yards away are a useful new invention for the ponds landscaper and pond constructor.

Several stout pegs., some longer than the depth of the pool, others just longer than the depth of the marginal shelf.

This photograph of a landscaped ponds pegged out hole shows the excavation including the marginal shelf

Take several strong 5cm (2ins) square pegs and mark them ready to pinpont the landscaped ponds area.

To mark out the perimeter of the landscaped ponds area the pegs may not need to be more than 30cm long since they are just going down to the marginal shelf level. But if the ground drops a way sharply then those marking the low edge will need to be a few centimetres deeper than the proposed depth of the pool (between 60cm and 1mtr - 2ft to roughly 3ft).

Mark the short pegs with an indelible line at 23cm (9ins). This mark will be an indicator to you when you have dug down to the marginal shelf level. Mark the long pegs with an indelible line near the bottom of the peg that will indicate the final depth of your excavation (adding 5cm for a layer of sand to the mean landscaped pond's depth that will cushion the liner) e.g. for a pool 60cm deep(2ft) add 5cm (2ins), the total depth excavated 65cm (26ins). If you are keen enough to contemplate a concrete lined pool add on an extra 15cm in every direction.

If the pool is going to be created some way from the house, paint the tops of the pegs with something to make them easily visible so that you can see the landscaped pond's shape from the house.

Choose one of the long pegs as a datum peg for the pool water level and drive it into what you consider to be the centre of the landscaped ponds surface area to roughly the water level you foresee.

The top of this peg will mark the level to which you drive in all the other pegs. Keep them less than 2.5 metres (8 ft) apart. Save the longer ones for gauging the depth of the excavation later if you can. Mark the perimeter with shorter ones, but in steeply sloping situations you may need the long ones to mark the landscaped ponds perimeter on the low side.

Keep all the pegs roughly 15cm (6ins) inside the line of your proposed landscaped ponds perimeter. If there is turf roughly undulating around the site it may be necessary to remove some of it in the landscaped ponds area to get a clearer view of the lie of the land .... maybe even a few inches of soil.

Landscaped ponds - why so much trouble?
I expect you are beginning to wonder why you just don't launch into it straight off , having dedicated so much effort so far. Well at this stage at least you haven't dedicated any hard earned nor made a decision you cannot reverse. Having got this far, now you can sit back, look, consider and firmly decide upon any possible changes.

You can gauge the size precisely and the amount of engineering involved and the amount of expense effort and hard landscaping required to complete the landscaping of the pond.

Amazing Water Gardens: Aquatic Plants Japanese Water Gardens & Special Uses in Ponds

2005-05-02T05:58:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Aquatic Plants Japanese Water Gardens & Special Uses in Ponds

Aquatic Plants Japanese Water Gardens & Special Uses in Ponds

2005-05-02T05:57:00.000-04:00

Peter J May has produced a useful list of aquatic and other garden and pond plants for special situations especially the Japanese themed water garden
Peter J May's and Others Recommended List Of Aquatic Plants For Special Circumstances

contact Peter here http://www.perfect-pond-detective.com

Plants For Natural (Vegetable) Pond Filters
The Norfolk reed (Phragmites australis) is by far the best since it not only removes pollutants but is capable of adding oxygen to the water ... ie it is an oxygenator plant too. Oxygenators are generally those plants whose leaves are always submerged so that oxygen from the photosynthesis process has a chance to dissolve before being lost to the atmosphere.
Other useful plants are generally in the fast growing class so that maximum biomass is created in the quickest possible time. Consider the following ...

Sweet Galingale (Cyperus longus)

Soft Rush (Juncus effusus)

True Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris)

Flowering Rush (Butomus umbrellatus)

Water cress has also often been used

Plants For Japanese Effects Around Ponds
For the Japanese garden in rockery areas

Pruned evergreens (preferably slow growing to create form and shape)

Type of Box

Dwarf Azealas

Dwarf Rhododendrons

Small Camalias

Moss

For the Japanese garden in general use
Red Pine (Pinus densiflora)

Black Pine (Pinus thunbergi)

Acer dissectum species

Cherry Blossom (Prunus x yeodensis)

Japanese Apricot (Prunus mume)

Maples

Bamboos

Japanese Crab Apple (Malus x zumi)

Wedding Cake Tree (Viburnum plicatum Maresii)

Cotoneasters

Chaenomeles

Fatsias

Kerria

Magnolias

Loniceras

Spiraeas

For the Japanese garden around the pond perennials
Japanese Irises

Hostas (click to see Peter's detailed article about Hostas in water gardening

Peonies

Hemerocallis

Polygonums

Plants NOT to use around a pond ... toxic leaves and other reasons
Oaks

Laburnum

Yew

Elder

Oleander

Do not plant deciduous trees (especially willows) in general because of the mess in autumn if for no other reason

Amazing Water Gardens: Spring is springing for the water gardener

2005-04-30T21:11:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Spring is springing for the water gardener

Spring is springing for the water gardener

2005-04-30T21:10:00.000-04:00

Hello, it’s Peter May is here again,

I realised the other day how time is flashing by. I went to give a talk on water gardens to a gardening club in a large village a few miles from London on Wednesday last week. When I arrived at the village hall, I was very early and nobody was there apart from a huge frog sitting in the entrance porch – and the door to the entrance was closed! He looked as if he had been waiting for me to arrive and wasn’t too impressed with what he saw. If he was under the impression I was going to be talking about water gardens, he might have thought that I was going to reveal where the best and nearest ones were. I had to make it plain that didn’t have clue where any water gardens were at all in that district apart from the Kennet and Avon Canal that was about a mile down the road. He seemed to make out that he wasn’t bothered and he was quite happy sitting in the little puddle he had found in the porch, thank you.

This is quite true, and I found it quite odd and decidedly ominous in the circumstances, but it was quite plain that Spring was springing. There was a milder ambiance in the air despite the added drizzle. It was obviously time for bedsocks off for Frogs! And here I was, I’ve got a client whose pool I was meant to clear out and repair before the onset of spring and all the ‘darling little tadpoleywolelys’ start hatching from their slime balls. I’ll have to get to it toute suite, hopefully getting in there before the Frog Spawn gets laid; or if it is there, I can bale it into buckets, empty the pool and then do the repair. But what the hell…..even when they do hatch, they normally get hoovered up in one fell swoop by a passing badger, or the newts pick ‘em off one by one until there is only a handful left to make the final break to freedom as baby froglets.
So milder eh? Those fishkeepers will all be getting itchy fingers, desperate to feed their beloved pets. The tough old goldfish can take anything you throw at them, but the Golden Orfe and especially the Koi Carp just cannot be fed until the temperature of the water is getting permanently above 7°C (45°F). Then between 7°C and 10°C(50°F) only feed low protein food or wheat germ. It is only above 10°C that things really get swinging underwater: oxygenators start seriously oxygenating; bacteria really get down to digesting organic matter and the fish metabolism really kicks into gear. The last thing the fish need in their delicate state after several months in repose, is a shower of toxic inconsumable fish food from the pool surface that will sink to the bottom to add a work load to the already pressurized balance of the pool environment. Uneaten fish food is probably the biggest the pollutant that regularly gets into the average pool, so this month’s big tip is to arm yourself with a thermometer and a net. The thermometer will give you the go ahead on the right temperature to start feeding. Use a good quality floating fish food that is appropriate for the time of year and feed it in small amounts, only enough that the fish can eat in a minute or two. Any that is uneaten, net off. For more details on quality fish food see Tony Roocroft's article on everything you need to know about koi food

What he doesn’t know about what makes good fish food isn’t worth knowing.

So back to this talk that I was doing on Wednesday, it was odd that I came across somebody that had a similar problem as one of you in regards to phantom water leakage problems. One of you had water leaking sideways and upwards from the pressure of water coming over a waterfall, I presumed travelling along little interstices (posh word!) between the liner and the cement and rockwork. This lady had had turf coming down into her pool. When the soil outside the pool dried out (particularly after the pool had been over filled by heavy rain or topping up), little capillary reactions that had set themselves up in the soil below the turf, effectively siphoned the pool down to a level where the turf stopped.

I have always used a rock edge to prevent this, but the turf thing keeps cropping up year after year despite the fact that where things can siphon out, other chemical can leach in to upset the pool balance. Not just lawn weedkillers or fertilizers, but natural pollutants from the soil like the nitrates and phosphates (all like steak and chips to algae). The only effective way of preventing this is when you are building the pool, the liner must come up to the level required and dip down six inches into a shallow trench. In this I was told to lay a concrete sausage, but I would say myself that it ought to be clean gravel. This will help disrupt any siphoning action within the soil only because it has to bridge the trench.

Top tips for the Month

If you’ve been dragging out that blanket weed all month and hoiking out oxygenating weed along with it, it may be as well to replant a batch of it. Break of some clean pieces from some over grown stems and push them into baskets in bunches of 5, 25 bunches to a basket and place it on bricks about a foot below the surface. Once it is obviously growing, lower it to 2ft (600cm).

You can out those marginal plants if they need replanting. No real hurry but get it done before the middle of April. Just empty out the baskets, divide with a knife of spade and replant the portions with healthy growing tips in a good heavy garden loam. Wait a while for the lilies until they are in full growth and the heavier the loam the better for them. Top off with pea shingle. In new ponds they will need a good feed of a slow release pellet each.

Keep your eyes peeled for any fish diseases, sores, or things hanging off or on and treat accordingly. Because this is such a huge subject, that’s all I can say for the moment, things will be revealed as time rolls on.

Really there isn’t a huge amount for the water gardener to do as long as he or she can spot potential problems before they arise. So basically this just means a watchful eye over your precious creation.

All the best

Pete

Amazing Water Gardens: Water Gardening, Spring and Toads

2005-04-29T08:39:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Water Gardening, Spring and Toads

Water Gardening, Spring and Toads

2005-04-29T08:38:00.000-04:00

Hello, It’s me Peter May again Things are getting busy. Old clients are ringing me up with this and that problem. As the biological activity creeps into life in the their pools, so do they –some of them the are very old – the pools and the clients.

Here in the UK we have had the sunniest March that I can ever remember. It hasn’t been particularly warm but it has been bright. The effect on the gardens has been pretty much the same as last year when it was incredibly dull, but warm. Weathermen, or the meteorologists reckon that most things have been emerging at approximately two weeks prior to what they would have done 20 years ago. Pondwise that figures, because back in 1982, I remember building a pond on a very grand estate that was surrounded by a wall. This wall, at the lady client’s request, was hollow and was designed to be a ‘Toad Hotel’! It had cat proof entrances on the lawn side and pond side. It had recreation areas and sleeping areas and general lounging around doing toady things areas. All areas were duly checked for cleanliness and removal of builder’s rubble by her ladyship before the ‘hotel’ was capped before the deadly deadline of March 19th . This was the date, she insisted was the day that the toads went on the march for their annual gross orgy. But as you who have been receiving earlier newsletters know, that I have been reporting amphibious activity as early as February, so I should think there have been some pretty early bookings at that old ‘Toad Hotel’.

But what are these problems that seem to be affecting ponds in the UK? Well most of them are like the ‘lawn mower syndrome’, where the lawn mower sits in the garden shed for 5 months having been put away after the last mow of the season with all the good intentions of giving it a good clean and service before Christmas. Well, Christmas comes and goes and so does the opportune time for the first cut of the year. Eventually it emerges squeakily from the garden shed and if it doesn’t just manage one or two bronchial coughs in response to your efforts to get it started, but instead bursts into life with all the eagerness of the of the promise of spring, it suddenly dies a death the moment it is put face to face with the task at hand.

Yep, machinery and Sod’s law walk hand in hand through the history of our tormented lives, and pond pumps, filters and U/V clarifiers are that sort of machinery. Waterfalls and fountains can be included. If you didn’t put your pool or pond ‘to bed’ at the end of the year by cleaning and checking the pump, the filter and the U/V then you’ve only got yourself to blame when you switch it on and “ it don’t work!” So of you didn’t do it then, and even if you seemed to have escaped the hand of fate for this year, still give it a thorough check out. Check the trip switch on the outside electrics first. Then have a look at the pump. Take it apart and give it good clean. If it is one of those cylindrical cellar type pumps with the open grill round the bottom, you will probably find it gunged up with tadpoles. Not a pretty site. (You might want to devise a sort of prefilter - but that’s a story for another day). Work your way to the U/V and change the bulb. From thence to the filtration unit and see what delights have been nestling in that through the winter. The very least it will need is a backflush. If you haven’t got this facility, you will have to get all the filter medium out and give it a quick wash through, with rain water or pond water. I have a leaky bucket that is almost like a colander that I rinse the filter medium in.

If the filter has been working fairly non-stop through the winter you will be surprised at how dirty it is. This was because the biological activity in the filter would have slowed to virtually nothing at low temperatures, but the filter would still be working effectively mechanically. This would mean a build up of sludge without it being digested.

If you have a stream or waterfall, check this for leaf litter and silt build up. The dry spell we have just experienced is a great time for spotting leaks and overspill in the surrounding soil. People with preformed waterfall units will need to check that their units are still well supported underneath as they very often get undermined in heavy rain. If the stream or waterfall has been constructed on made up ground, before the undergrowth around the stream build up, check around the inlet to make sure there is no overspill or consolidation that has caused the back of the waterfall to drop down.

Apart from maintenance (or lack of it) problems, the main thing is the blanket weed, spirogya, cotton weed – whatever. It is the candyfloss type of algae that gets a start on the rest of the plantlife in the pool and just loves that bright sunlight. It also loves water with a high pH. So if you reduce that with proprietary chemicals, although I have a client experimenting with vinegar, you will find that any other treatments are a lot more effective. Most aquatic suppliers have some remedy. Barley straw is effective for certain periods as long as the water is very well oxygenated and the straw is changed at regular intervals of not more than 10weeks. Certain of my colleagues tell me that Bartley straw actually ‘pollutes’ the water in order to clear it and that there are compounds on the market that remove nutritional elements that blanket weed in particular thrive on. Phosphates are the main culprits and many of these come from ‘run off’ from the surrounding soil. Once again these remedies wont work in situations where the pH is above 8.5. When the product comes at well over £30 a tub for one seasons treatment, you don’t want to be effectively pouring money down the drain just because you pool has got ‘hard’ water.

Plants of the month.
On the margins

The Marsh Marigolds (Caltha palustris and all the species and varieties) are still at it. Brilliant.

The Water Forgetmenot (Myosotis palustris) is also making waves of blue around the pond.

Also there is the Golden Club (Oronitium aquaticum)

In the deep water

The old South African stew ingredient, the Water Hawthorn, Aponogeton distachyos, is flowering its socks off. An amazing plants that comes up from unlimited stygian depths to perform at the most ludicrous times of the year. It still thinks its down in the Cape, nestled in the fynbos looking up at Table Mountain.

Thinking of bogs, the the American Skunk Cabbage is up. Lysichiton Americanum, it looks almost too alien for our water gardens. Its big spathe of a flower is like a starters flag in a motor race and a timely reminder that things have got into gear and now we’re cruising!

Seasonal Tips
If you are contemplating a major clean out, this is one of the best times to do it, although personally I’d have done it before the tadpole explosion. If you do it. rescue as much wildlife as possible and leave any debris draining away on the side over night so that beasties can make their way back into the pool. Also treat any fresh tapwater with pool conditioner.

The plants will be coming into new growth. There is still time to divide and replant if you want. You can also feed with a slow release pellet in each basket.

Pool lights can come back out now.
Check the water quality. Many serious fish keepers will do a partial water change of up to one third in order to dilute any build up of salts and chemicals they may have been adding.

As the water temperature gets nearer to 10°C (50° F) you can start feed the fish their normal food. A bit of live daphne would be a special treat or chopped worms, yummy!

That’s got me thinking about my lunch.

Amazing Water Gardens: How To Build Small Garden Pond Bridges

2005-04-28T08:57:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: How To Build Small Garden Pond Bridges

How To Build Small Garden Pond Bridges

2005-04-28T08:55:00.000-04:00

Building bridges in and around your water garden ... encouraging aquatic pond wildlife to come and go

Encourage wildlife into your pond environment. A pond attracts a wide variety of wildlife and the attraction can be made even greater by paying attention to a few approaches of design and layout. In nature diversity is enormous. You find that certain animals prefer shallow areas, others stony areas and still others wooded sections. Many insects prefer riffling running waters over a clean bed of gravel.

Animals need access to and exit from water at times - such as the frog or toad. Birds need shallow water in which to bathe and drink without fear of drowning.

With these thoughts in mind create the following:
a) A wooden bridge over a section of your pond using a tree stump, you will find birds will perch here as also will dragonflies. Beware however the birds which prey on fish so do not make it too easy.

b) A very shallow inclined section allowing for animals to literally climb into and out of the water using pebbles to creat a beach effect. Wood in the form of a branch can also substitute here. Plants growing around the margins also assist.

c) Another way to bridge an outlet for wildlife is to place stones/pebbles between planting baskets at the edge of the pond. In this way the steep sides of the planting baskets or pots can be mounted. Flat slate inclined gently is a very good way of creating such a bridge.

d) If you have a waterfall/stream section place a boulder in the middle to create a resting place for birds and also to add character to the flow of water.

e) A range of pond plants including those with wide floating leaves will attract birds and frogs in particular. Submerged plants allow insects to breed and hide from predators.

Amazing Water Gardens: The String Algae Blues... By Brett Fogle

2005-04-26T08:54:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: The String Algae Blues... By Brett Fogle

The String Algae Blues... By Brett Fogle

2005-04-26T08:53:00.000-04:00

Now that Spring is upon us and things are coming back to life in your pond with the warmer weather, many of us are battling with string algae. String algae is caused primarily by a combination of the buildup of organic nutrients in the water, and sunlight.

What happens is that during winter, when things slow down and many of us turn off our filters, decaying leaves and other organic matter (including fish waste) begin to break down in the pond.

The result is an excess of organic nutrients in the water, which is essentially food for algae growth. Add sunlight and some warmer weather to these conditions, and you have an ideal environment for algae growth, both the green water and string algae varieties.

The green water, or 'pea soup' algae is easily eradicated with a properly sized UV sterilizer, which we highly recommend. String algae, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated and difficult to get rid of.

Because it is usually attached to the walls and rocks of the pond, it becomes more difficult to get rid of and unfortunately, there aren't and easy solutions. But we are going to outline a few remedies here that will help.

First, we recommend a pond cleaning - if possible. For those of you who don't clean your pond at least once annually, there are many good reasons to do this, and we'll be covering how to clean your pond in next months issue (with pictures!).

By cleaning out your pond, and removing as much of the decaying organic material from the bottom, you are also removing much of the 'food' for the algae.

Another good thing to do is to cut back on feeding your fish, until you get your string algae under control. The fish food, both eaten and digested, and the uneaten food, will both also contribute to this algae growth - so don't worry about the fish, just stop feeding for awhile.

There are several products available which can and will 'help' with the string algae problem, like barley bales and/or barley pellets. The idea is that by adding these to the pond, they will also start to decay in the water, and the resulting natural 'humic acids' will actually oxidize the algae, and help keep it under control.

Farmers in the 13th century noticed that lakes with bales of barley straw in them, had much less muck and string algae in them. So, now we use them in fish ponds. Barley pellets are a newer version of the same idea, but will generally start working faster. Barley straw needs several weeks before it starts working, and only after it starts to 'rot' in the water.

Another way to help with string algae is to raise your salt level in the pond. Anything over .3% will help control the algae, but is best for KOI ponds, as the salt may also affect water garden plants.

One last recommendation - we really like the Microbe Lift line of products. They also seem to help control string algae, by adding millions of beneficial microbes and beneficial bacteria that will feed off of this algae and also help to decompose any other organic waste in the pond.

Amazing Water Gardens: Early Spring in the Water Garden By Keith Folsom

2005-04-24T20:54:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Early Spring in the Water Garden By Keith Folsom

Early Spring in the Water Garden By Keith Folsom

2005-04-24T20:51:00.000-04:00

AHHHH! Spring is in the air once again. The Spring Peeper frogs have once again given the signal that it is time to look around the water garden for signs of life. Just like everyone else who has had a taste (or feel) of warm weather you are itching to get your water garden into shape for the season. Before you know it, the garden will transform to a wholly different appearance for the warm part of the year.

THE PLANTS
As the earth tilts her mighty mass towards the sun, the Northern Hemisphere slowly warms, often fooling us with hints of warmer weather, but just as often cruelly taking it back. Plants growing in the shallowest water will sometimes put forth a few leaves only to have them nipped back by freezing temperatures. Like any other herbaceous perennial aquatic plants are resilient, occasional setbacks are only temporary. The deeper the water, the slower its temperature changes. New growth will be slower to appear in deeper water and will be later coming up to the surface, hopefully missing the early season freezes. Water lilies and other bottom dwelling aquatics will wait until the water warms to at least 45 degrees at their root level. When this temperature is attained growth begins rather rapidly, sending leaves to the surface.

Nutritional needs of the aquatic plants must be met each growing season. This is accomplished by inserting fertilizer tablets into the soil once growth begins. The signal to apply fertilizer is once the first floating leaf has appeared on the water lily. Follow label instructions on the type of fertilizer that is selected for frequency and dosage of application. Bog plants or marginal aquatics are often prolific enough that additional applications of fertilizer can be omitted, even though recommended by the label. Submerged plants like Anacharis, are never fertilized since they get their nutrition directly from the water through their leaves.

The water temperature triggers various changes in the water garden beyond the growth of the ornamental plants. The non-ornamental plant that appears while the water is still quite cold is the filamentous algae. This is the stringy growth that appears on all underwater surfaces, giving a fuzzy coating anywhere there is wetness. While some novice water gardeners may object to it at first, most soon recognize its importance to the ecological balance of the pond. The many micro-surfaces of this algae is teaming with bacteria that processes the organic pollutants out of the water. The other kind of algae that is found in the water garden is called single-cell algae, the kind that makes water look like "pea soup". This more undesirable form of algae is not supposed to be found in the water garden until the water warms up. If it is abundant in the winter or early spring, this is an indication of water that has been fouled or has an over supply of organic waste present in the water. Later in spring or early summer it is not unusual to see the pond green up with this algae, but the condition is relatively short-lived.

THE FISH AND SCAVENGERS
As we look beyond the plants, warmer water means the living creatures begin to get more active as well. While fish may be active during the middle of the winter, their metabolism increases greatly once the water temperature rises above 45 degrees. Feeding of the fish should wait until this time since the fish are not really able to digest food as efficiently as later in the season. Use only wheat germ based foods in the earliest feedings. Not until the water temperature reaches 55 degrees should regular fish foods be utilized.

Fish in a water garden are considered cold water animals. In other words, they do best in the highly oxygenated environment of cold water. Occasionally they succumb to cold water parasite infestations. This generally occurs during the early part of the season when the pond begins to warm up and in fall as the pond cools down. The affliction is called white spot disease or Ich (short for the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) and can be controlled easily if detected early. The organism looks like salt granules on the bodies and especially the fins of goldfish and koi. The fish will be lethargic, hanging near the surface of the pond, showing little or no interest in food. If the parasite is allowed to progress to advanced stages where the organism is apparent on the head and gills it is usually fatal. Products that are found in water garden stores for the treatment of "ich" are particularly effective. They will contain formaldehyde and malachite green as the active ingredient. This parasite will often occur in healthy ponds as a result of a sudden temperature change caused by sudden and severe downpours. The dormant creatures reside in debris and sediment at the pond bottom. They are even found on the bodies of the fish without any apparent harm until some sort of stress causes the fish to show symptoms of the disease. Fish that have been recently moved or handled tend to be more vulnerable as well.

The snails should be pretty much self-sufficient at any time of the season. They will feed themselves with algae, fish waste and any other organic debris that they come across. Tadpoles, toads and frogs will consume algae until they metamorphose into adults. As scavengers, these creatures help to keep algae growth in check. Other insects and crustaceans appear from time to time in a water garden and should be regarded as beneficial from a bio-diversity standpoint.

PUMPS AND FILTERS
Once it has been determined that growth is beginning to take place, it is time to get the mechanical parts of the pond in order. The heart of the water garden, the pump, is to be operating as soon as the plants show signs of life. It has been shown that a water garden pump can be operated year round with no ill effects on plant or fish life. If a water garden has been properly located in a highly visible place in the landscape, it hardly makes sense to have the falls turned off during the winter months. A statue or fountainhead should be disconnected in winter, but the pump can still be operated, gurgling towards the surface for a miniature geyser effect that provides interest to the pond even during freezing weather.

If the pump was shut down during the winter, it should be cleaned before restarting. All pumps should be cleaned by taking the volute off, the plastic part at the end of the pump that is held on by screws or by tabs of plastic. This piece consists of the intake and outlet of the pump. Once removed, this should be thoroughly cleaned with water. Magnetic drive pumps have a removable impeller that should be cleaned also. The impeller is the part that spins and pushes water out of the outlet. To remove this part, grasp on the fins of the impeller and pull it out of the body of the pump. A small bottle brush or toothbrush can be inserted into the hole where the impeller was to clean algae or debris out. The magnet of the impeller should also be thoroughly brushed. Both parts should rinsed after brushing. Reassemble the pump after cleaning.

Be certain the screen is in place to protect the intake of the pump. A pre-filter should be installed in place of the screen if desired. Clean and re-install or replace the filter media at this time to freshen it for the upcoming season. If the polyester or foam media is flattened or worn out, it should be replaced.

Filters that are located outside of the pond (bio-filters) are to be set up and turned on at this time. If they have been drained or bypassed, reconnect the inlet and outlet lines and get water flowing into the filter. It is desirable to keep water flowing through at all times to maintain highest levels of bacterial populations. Filter media, bio-balls or any other substrate material must be installed or renewed, if necessary, when setting up the external filter. Apply commercially available bacteria to the biological filter when starting the system for the season for peak efficiency. A powdered formula (like BACK-UP Water Garden Bacteria) is best when grown in a bucket for two to four hours before releasing into the filter.

Reconnect all lines leading to UV sterilizer, statuary or fountain heads once danger of prolonged or deep freezing has passed. At this time the pond should be fully operational for the season even though the weather may still be cold.

STOCKING THE WATER GARDEN
New pond builders can begin stocking a water garden as soon as the ice is gone from the pond. Stocking of a water garden can be done at any time of the year if the pond is not frozen over. Availability is sometimes limited early in the season until plant growth is well underway. The plants most needed are underwater growth, like Anacharis, Myriophyllum and Cabomba and floating leaf plants, like water lilies since they provide shade for the water garden and protection for the fish.

Introduction of fish and scavengers is done at any time of the year unless the water is frozen over. The living creatures are best handled during the cold water time of the season. They are more resistant to stresses of moving since their slime coating is more stable when the water is cold. But more importantly, the dissolved oxygen levels are highest when the water temperature is low, making the healthiest environment for the fish. In newly constructed water gardens, the plants must be established for at least four weeks prior to introducing fish. While scavengers can be put in at any time, the waiting period is to ensure adequate levels of bacterial populations that eliminate fish waste from the water.

CONSTRUCTION AND RENOVATION
A great time to build a new water garden or add on to an existing pond is any time that the ground can be worked. Avoid renovations or new construction when the soil is wet or frozen. Many people prefer to undertake new construction when other garden projects are not yet under way. Having completed new pond work prior to the growing season leaves time for other pressing garden work and allows the most time for full growth potential.

Set-up patio ponds early in the season to allow this small-scale garden time to establish an ecological balance with algae, bacteria, plants and ultimately fish. Since this type of pond is often disassembled during the winter, the longer the season it has available, the more successful it can be. Just like any water garden, the patio pond can be set up during any time of the year, spring, summer or fall.

SPRING COLOR
Spring season begins the flowering succession that continues throughout the entire year. The first plant that will show off its blossoms is the Water Hawthorne (Aponogeton distachyus). The fragrant white flowers are seen in very early spring and even in late winter. This cold water tolerant plant boasts the ability to grow even in cold water of natural springs. The floating leaves will begin to diminish in size and disappear altogether in the hottest part of summer. The next plant to flower is the Golden Club (Orontium aquaticum). The curious, brilliant yellow flower spikes emerge from the rosette of growth soon after the Water Hawthorne and remain for about four weeks. Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) flowers in early to mid spring with showy yellow flowers among scalloped round leaves. Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans) has profuse lavender purple flowers on a carpet of tiny ground-covering leaves. Some forms of Buttercup (Ranunculus)that are suited to water will flower in mid to late spring with flowers ranging from white to yellow. As the flowering of the Iris (Iris spp.) often heralds the arrival of spring the same is true in the water garden. No pond is complete without a succession of flowers produced by the many forms of the water iris. Colors form white to almost black, and everything in between, can be found from early to late spring and even early summer. One of the most interesting additions to a wet spot around the water garden is the carnivorous Pitcher Plant [left] (Sarracenia leucophylla). The unusual flowers are persistent for six weeks or more followed by the insect devouring trumpet shaped leaves. Be careful not to place them in water over their roots, as they do not tolerate more than damp soil with the bottoms of the root system in water.

The aquatic grasses provide color even though there is no flowering. The early season growth is striking and can be as interesting as blooms. The first hint of pink emerges from the pond in very early spring on the Variegated Manna Grass (Glyceria spectabilis variegata). This color will be visible for about six weeks then fades to a creamy white variegation on a mint green leaf. The Ribbon Grass named 'Strawberries 'n' Cream' (Phalaris arundinacea) begins the spring with a showy pink leaf that diminishes to a pale pink and white variegation. This ornamental aquatic grass produces pink plumes in the late summer as a bonus. Other plants that give color without flowers are the White Bulrush (Scirpus tabernaemontani albescens) or the Zebra Bulrush (Scirpus tabernaemontani zebrinus). These strongly variegated bog plants make a great show early in the season, the keep their variegations throughout the season. Consider these non-flowering bog plants for their early season interest.

Get the water garden going with a succession of color that leads into the summer. With proper plant selection, a pond can have interesting color from early spring to late fall.

Amazing Water Gardens: New for 2006- Granite flexible preformed rock ponds By Gerry Fung

2005-04-23T14:07:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: New for 2006- Granite flexible preformed rock ponds By Gerry Fung

New for 2006- Granite flexible preformed rock ponds By Gerry Fung

2005-04-23T14:06:00.000-04:00

Traditionally, preformed ponds are large shells, which are extremely burdensome and difficult to transport. For example, a typical preformed pond kit would come in a box that is 60” x 48” x 24”, which is too large for many car trunk sizes. Liner kits, on the other hand, present many difficulties for the beginner pond gardener. Since every liner pond shape is different, pond gardeners must customize their own pond and ensure that it is level, and that it does not have excessive wrinkling.

Recently, Algreen Products Inc. has helped leverage both these problems by introducing a flexible preformed pond. The folding preformed/liner hybrid is created with a proprietary blend of materials, which allows it to hold a customized shape. Yet it is easily transportable, since a typical folding kit comes in a box one-sixth the size of a regular preformed kit.

The only problem with the folding pond shell was that it was a dark solid black color. Black is a color that does not occur naturally in a pond environment, nor is it very easy to disguise. No matter how much landscaping you apply around the black shell, it is still extremely difficult to hide the fact that you are using a preformed pond.

New for 2006, Algreen is proud to announce the development of a granite flexible rock pond kit! This new folding pond shell has all the benefits of its black preformed predecessor, but both the pond and the streamlet look like rock.

Algreen advertises that its folding pond includes 3 built-in plant shelves, is weather-resistant, and is able to withstand extreme temperatures from 0 F to 105 F. Each pond shell features textured ridges, which are strategically placed to allow beneficial bacteria to form growth colonies, which significantly reduces algae-buildup in the pool.

Currently, there are two sizes of granite pond shells available from GardenSuperMart (GardenSM.com): a 144 gallon shell, and a 72 gallon shell. Both pond kits come complete with:

- The granite flexible pond shell

- A flexible streamlet

- An energy-efficient, heavy-duty Super Flo pump (500 or 306 gph, for the 144 gallon and 72 gallon shells respectively) A telescopic riser and diverter for the Super Flo pump

- Four fountain heads

- Two 6” silk water lilies

- Tubing and clamps.

At the time of this article, http://www.GardenSM.com has the lowest pricing for these granite pond kits. GardenSM.com has the 144 gallon granite kit priced at $166.14 USD, and the 72 gallon granite kit priced at $126.14. As part of their Grand Opening Special, GardenSuperMart is also including a FREE solar-powered frog light with the purchase of every folding pond kit.

This article can be viewed in its entirety (with pictures) at http://www.gardensupermart.com/tips/granite.asp. Further information about the granite flexible pond kits can be obtained at http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/pics/granite_preformed.html.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Amazing Water Gardens: Tetra Pond UV Sterilizers

2005-04-22T09:02:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens: Tetra Pond UV Sterilizers

Tetra Pond UV Sterilizers

2005-04-22T09:00:00.000-04:00

Green water got you down? Is your pond starting to look more like a swamp than a water garden? Well worry no longer - in case you haven't heard of or used a UV sterilizer before, the good news is that they work, and they work very well..

UV sterilizers work by passing your pond water through a chamber containing an ultraviolet lamp inside. As the water passes through - the UV lamp damages the DNA of the suspended algae cells, and prevents it from replicating, which means no more algae.

After This month, we are going to highlight one of our best selling UV sterilizers, made by Tetra Pond. The Tetra Pond UV sterilizers are extremely economical, easy to install, and very effective. They are really more of a 'clarifier' than a true UV sterilizer, but the end result is the same - clear water. True UV sterilizers typically use a higher intensity bulb, and longer contact time. These units will also help control parasites and bacteria in the pond, but can be very expensive and are best used on larger KOI ponds.

But for the average pond and water garden owner, with ponds as small as 50 gallons, all the way up to several thousand gallons, Tetra makes a suitable UV unit to meet your needs. Prices range from $149 (very reasonable) for the UV Mini, all the way up to $279 for the UV 3. For more information on sizes and pricing, please click here:

http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Tetra_Pond/tetrapondUV.htm

Here are some of the other benefits of this unit:

Provides permanent control of suspended algae which cause green water.

Removes heavy algae blooms-usually within 5 days-and keeps the pond algae-free

Maintain beautiful water clarity while reducing pond maintenance.

Compact, durable, easy to install and energy efficient.

Here is a diagram showing how the unit works:

In the past, pond owners were only left with a few options for controlling green water. The most common was to pack as many nutrient absorbing plants in the pond as possible - hoping that they would essentially starve out the algae. This method was / is effective on smaller ponds mostly, but not cost effective for larger ponds due to the amount of plants needed.

Another drawback to this method is that in most parts of the country, cold winters will cause these submerged and floating plants to die off. Then you have to buy them again in the spring time, every year.

So in the long run, it is more economical to just invest once in a properly sized UV sterilizer. We've used the Tetra units for years, and they always work well. Typically, a UV sterilizer will clear a green pond in 2-3 days, and keep it clear (depending on the filtration system) all year.

As far as maintenance, there really is none. Just plug it in, and connect it to your pump, and that's it! Bulbs usually last 12 months of use, or one full season at least, and are reasonably priced for replacement bulbs.

If you're not as happy with your pond water clarity, and especially if your pond is in full sun with few plants, then you should really consider adding a UV sterilizer to your system.

In our opinion, no pond should be without one!

Click here for more information

How To Build A Waterfall By Dan Eskelson

2005-04-21T16:41:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-04-21T16:40:00.000-04:00

The number one, most asked question that I receive about water features is "How do I build a waterfall?"

The first advice I give is to visit natural waterfalls or at least look at photos. Don't try to memorize just how they look...just get a general idea how the water flows around and over the rocks.

The design of your falls will depend on topography, pump and pipe size, length of water flow from pump to falls, pond size and possibly other site-specific factors. If your pond is just 4' x 6', you certainly don't want a large, three foot wide falls - keep the elements of your water feature in scale.

One of the most common mistakes results from the desire for a tall waterfall at a level building site...large amounts of soil are imported to build the falls up to a three or four foot height. Yes, you will achieve a dramatic waterfall, but the total effect will look more like an out of place volcano. A falls of just two feet will produce a very satisfactory effect both visually and audibly.

On a level site, with an "average" size pond of 11' x 16', the amount of soil needed to surround the biological filter and create the berm is just about equal to the amount of soil excavated from the pond...it works out quite well. To further enhance or enlarge the berm, you may want to import a little more soil, large boulders or other features.

If you are working on a slope, you have the option of placing the biological filter (waterfall source) uphill from the pond and creating a series of cascading waterfalls. This is how I built my falls, described in the photo essay here: http://clearwaterlandscapes.com/pondphotos.htm

It was definitely an exercise in visualization to determine exactly how the water would flow down the falls. I made a slight underestimation of the total flow and could have widened the falls somewhat, but the effect is very acceptable.

Even on a level site, it's a good design strategy to place the falls six to eight feet from the pond. This will create a short stream to the pond.

Be sure to use a wide EPDM rubber liner under the falls and/or stream...this will allow for twists and turns in the course of the water and also contain splashing. A ten foot wide stream liner is recommended. Underlayment under the falls and stream liners is usually not required.

When your excavation is complete for the falls, and liner is in place, add your stone. Don't be in a hurry - try several (or many) combinations and visualize how the water will flow.

When satisfied with your arrangement, use black waterfall foam to direct the water over the stone instead of under it. That is, stone that is directly in contact with the liner should sit on a bed of foam so the water goes around or over the stone instead of underneath it. Caution - the foam expands greatly...don't use too much!

Though it requires some creativity and patience, building a waterfall is extremely satisfying. Though you should give some time to preliminary research, you'll learn most by actually building your water feature - just do it! You'll find that your water garden is the most relaxing and enjoyable part of your yard.

About The Author

Visit Our Site for Interactive Landscaping Solutions.

Plan and Visualize Your New Landscape Online.

You're an Essential Part of the Design Team!

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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Fish Health in Hot Summer Heat

2005-04-20T09:06:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-04-20T09:05:00.000-04:00

Fish Health in Hot Summer Heat

Summer is over, but for many of us - the heat remains. Here a couple of things to do to keep your fish healthy and your pond clear going into winter.
First, remember to keep your pond well aerated. This is very important to your fish because the pond water actually holds less oxygen at higher pond temperatures. So if it's still hot in your part of the country, keep those waterfalls and fountains running! This will keep your pond water full of oxygen, and reduce stress on your fish.

If you see your goldfish or KOI gasping at the surface, it's a good sign that you don't have enough dissolved oxygen in the water, and this can be dangerous. Especially if you have a lot of green water algae in the pond. This algae can absorb much of the oxygen in the pond water at night and cause very low dissolved oxygen levels during the day - which can be deadly to fish!

One thing we recommend this time of year, is to do a partial water change. Drain off 10 - 25% of your total pond volume, and replace it with fresh, new dechlorinated water. If possible, vacuum or drain decaying organic matter and debris off the bottom to reduce the ponds bio-load.

Your fish will usually be vibrant and playful after a water change. It's like giving them a 'breath of fresh air' and invigorates them. Again, we only recommend a 10 - 25% water change right now - but feel free to experiment with whatever works best for your pond.

Remember to re-add your pond salt whenever you drain and add new water. Having a salt water test kit is also helpful, or a digital salinity meter, to determine optimum salt levels.

Choosing the Proper Pond Pump by Gerry Fung

2005-04-19T19:57:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-04-19T19:56:00.000-04:00

Whether you have a preformed or a liner pond, a pond pump is a paramount component of any water feature. Stagnant bodies of water attract mosquito infestations, which are a nuisance, and also undesirable, due to the recent outbreaks of the West Nile virus. Therefore, it is paramount that you utilize a pond pump that circulates your body of water.

Pumps are available in both submersible and external (out-of-pond) models. For the smaller pond (up to 1000 gallons of water), a submersible pump is the more economical and practical option. Submersible pumps can be placed directly in the pond and require relatively little installation. They are free of distracting noise, and for smaller ponds, can easily be utilized to drain your pond (if you hook up a hose to the output flow).

In the old days, the main disadvantage of submersible pumps was that the pump seal could rupture and release oil coolant into the water. However, this is not the case nowadays, because newer pumps are magnetic-driven, and no longer require coolant. “Mag-driven” pumps are slightly more expensive, but they have the added advantage of consuming less electricity.

Pumps are sized by gallons per hour (GPH) output at one foot of lift or height. Manufacturers usually offer charts that break down the power of each size pump according to incremental heights of one foot. It is recommended that you circulate your body of water at least once every 2 hours. Therefore you will need to size your pump to ensure that it has half the GPH rating as the volume of your pond in gallons. For example, if you have a 1000 gallon water feature, you will require at least a 500 GPH pump.

Calculating the proper pump for waterfalls is a bit trickier, because you must estimate your waterfall's height. To do so, you must measure the vertical height from the top of your pump to the top of your waterfall. In addition, you must add another foot of height or lift for every 10 feet of hosing you will be using (this will allow for loss of volume from resistance within the hose). To calculate the required pump GPH, a general rule of thumb is that each inch of width of the channel will require an extra 100 GPH. For example, if your stream or waterfall spillway will be 10 inches wide, you will need a pump that produces an excess flow of 1000 GPH at your waterfall's height.

If you plan on having fish, your water circulation demands will be drastically increased. Fish rely on the oxygen in the water to survive, hence a proper pump for a fish pond must ensure that extra oxygen is both introduced into the pond, and distributed throughout the pond. The general rule of thumb is that you must double your pump GPH if you plan on raising fish. An example of a pump that would be appropriate for fish is GardenSuperMart’s UltraFlo line of pumps. These pumps have oxygen intake valves and an unique air/water air mix system which effectively increases the oxygen concentration in your pond.

The advantage of GardenSuperMart’s low-maintenance, magnetic-driven UltraFlo pump kits is that they contain a sealed unit with a large enclosure that prevents debris from clogging the water intake. The UltraFlo line of pumps starts at 200 GPH, and increase up to 660 GPH. All UltraFlo pump kits come complete with a telescopic riser and diverter and 3 fountain heads.

If you require a more powerful pump, GardenSuperMart also has a SuperFlo line of pump kits that can provide up to 1585 GPH. All SuperFlo kits come complete with a telescopic riser and diverter, 4 fountain heads, and a sponge pre-filter. An optional SuperFlo Mechancial and Biological filter can also be added to the pump to provide additional water filtration for your fish.

Both the SuperFlo and the UltraFlo pumps can be purchased online at GardenSuperMart’s store, www.buypond.com. In late May 2005, GardenSuperMart will also introduce a new line of MaxFlo waterfall pumps that can provide up to 2780 GPH of pumping power. Please stay tuned for further news and details.

Gerry Fung is the Vice President of GardenSuperMart, http://www.GardenSuperMart.com.

More information about their pond pump lines can be obtained at http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094.2.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Planning a Water Garden... by Gordon Goh

2005-04-16T22:25:00.001-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-04-16T22:25:00.000-04:00

A water garden is the area of your landscape that will provide you with relaxing sounds of the water, while adding to the overall details of your landscape. The water garden is a project that you must 'plan' for continued success. If you are lucky enough to have the room in your lawn for a water garden, you are already one step ahead of many gardeners! Let's talk a little about how to plan for your water garden. A few important factors about placement of a water garden that often are forgotten are:

Do you have children in the neighborhood? If you have or live near children, you will want to keep your water garden in an area that will be close to your home. You will want to be able to see what is 'going on' by the water. Children are curious and they love water! Being able to see your water garden will save you worry later after the creation of your water garden even if the children are in the yard.

Do you have a natural spring in your lawn area? When planning a waterfall in the water garden, the use of a natural spring or water source is going to make the continued success of your water garden much easier. A water garden is possible with a waterfall even if you do not have a natural spring or water source, but it is a little more 'work' to create that special effect. You can find more information about this in another article on this site.

The lay of your land is important. While we will discuss this in other articles as well, planning your water garden around the lay of your land is important. If you are lucky enough to have a flat lawn, you can plan your water garden in various areas. The landscape that includes hills and slopes are a little tricky but using the slope in your lawn, you can create the water garden that takes care of that little 'wet patch' at the bottom of the yard!

Most water gardens are an addition or extension of the natural landscape. To encourage and invite your guests to the water garden for picnics, for chats, and for just sitting in pleasure: Plan the water garden so it's visible from the walkway to your home. The water garden that your visitors and guests see while entering your home adds value to your home and to your conversation!

In planning your water garden, use a sheet of paper to write down what you want to gain from your water garden. Start your list by using personal reasons, value reasoning, enhancing, or changing the overall look of your landscape. Alternately, you may simply want a place for solitude. These are the desires you'll write on your list. From this list, you can better plan 'where' your water garden will suit you and your ideas.

Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website Simply Flower Garden offering quality useful tips for flower garden lovers.

About the Author
Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website content of Flower | Garden Tips offering quality useful tips for flower gardening

The String Algae Blues... By Brett Fogle

2005-04-13T09:08:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-04-13T09:07:00.000-04:00

Now that Spring is upon us and things are coming back to life in your pond with the warmer weather, many of us are battling with string algae. String algae is caused primarily by a combination of the buildup of organic nutrients in the water, and sunlight.

What happens is that during winter, when things slow down and many of us turn off our filters, decaying leaves and other organic matter (including fish waste) begin to break down in the pond.

The result is an excess of organic nutrients in the water, which is essentially food for algae growth. Add sunlight and some warmer weather to these conditions, and you have an ideal environment for algae growth, both the green water and string algae varieties.

The green water, or 'pea soup' algae is easily eradicated with a properly sized UV sterilizer, which we highly recommend. String algae, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated and difficult to get rid of.

Because it is usually attached to the walls and rocks of the pond, it becomes more difficult to get rid of and unfortunately, there aren't and easy solutions. But we are going to outline a few remedies here that will help. First, we recommend a pond cleaning - if possible. For those of you who don't clean your pond at least once annually, there are many good reasons to do this.

By cleaning out your pond, and removing as much of the decaying organic material from the bottom, you are also removing much of the 'food' for the algae.

Another good thing to do is to cut back on feeding your fish, until you get your string algae under control. The fish food, both eaten and digested, and the uneaten food, will both also contribute to this algae growth - so don't worry about the fish, just stop feeding for awhile.

There are several products available which can and will 'help' with the string algae problem, like barley bales and/or barley pellets. The idea is that by adding these to the pond, they will also start to decay in the water, and the resulting natural 'humic acids' will actually oxidize the algae, and help keep it under control.

Farmers in the 13th century noticed that lakes with bales of barley straw in them, had much less muck and string algae in them. So, now we use them in fish ponds. Barley pellets are a newer version of the same idea, but will generally start working faster. Barley straw needs several weeks before it starts working, and only after it starts to 'rot' in the water.

Another way to help with string algae is to raise your salt level in the pond. Anything over .3% will help control the algae, but is best for KOI ponds, as the salt may also negatively affect water garden plants.

We also really like the Microbe Lift line of products. They also seem to help control string algae, by adding millions of beneficial microbes and beneficial bacteria that will feed off of this algae and also help to decompose any other organic waste in the pond.

An alternate method that many pond owner prefer is to add a chemical algaecide like PondCare's Algae Fix. This is safe for fish and plants, and does seem to temporarily knock out suspended and filamenous algae, but does need to be added periodically for long term control.

One new method that we've been hearing more and more about is adding a certain type of clay to the pond water. Calcium Montmorillonite Clay is gaining popularity among KOI pond owners and water gardeners as an effective, natural method of algae control. It is also noted as having many beneficial qualities for the fish in the pond.

Hope this helps!

Happy pondkeeping.

Publishing Guidelines

You have permission to publish this article electronically or in print, free of charge, as long as the bylines are included. A courtesy copy of your publication would be appreciated.

About The Author

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 6,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens>

To Salt or Not to Salt Your Pond...By Brett Fogel

2005-04-12T09:25:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-04-12T09:21:00.000-04:00

The important question of whether or not to add salt to your pond is often confusing for beginners and forgotten by experienced pond-keepers. To newbies and pro's alike we have this to say:

"Add Salt Today to Keep the Fish Doctor Away"

True, there are some negative effects of higher salt levels on plants in the pond, but overall we think it is absolutely the very best thing you can add to your pond in terms of keeping your fish happy and healthy. Salt acts as a natural 'stress coat' and essentially thickens the slime coat on the fish's body - which is it's own natural defense system against bacteria and parasites.

Salt is also very effective in killing bacteria and parasites in the pond. When added in proper doses, salting your pond can dramatically reduce the threat of disease affecting your fish.

It's just like with humans - we are always exposed to the common cold cells in their body, but can usually resist if their immune system is strong. Similarly, pond fish and KOI are always exposed to some degree of parasite and bacteria presence in the pond, but by keeping their immune system strong and their slime coat thick, you shouldn't have any problems.

Pond fish actively maintain a natural balance of electrolytes in their body fluids. Electrolytes such as potassium, sodium, chloride, calcium and magnesium are removed from the water by chloride cells located in the gills. These electrolytes are essential for the uptake of oxygen and release of carbon dioxide and ammonium across gill membranes.

The lack of electrolytes can cause serious health problems to the fish. Pond Salt is an all natural salt, providing the essential electrolytes fish need to survive. Pond Salt is not just a table salt ( sodium chloride ). It is made from evaporated sea water. Evaporated sea water contains the necessary electrolytes pond fish need.

How Pond Salt helps Improve Gill Function to Reduce Stress....

During periods of disease and stress, healthy gill function is disturbed. This can lead to the loss of electrolytes through the gills, sometimes called osmotic shock. Osmotic shock interrupts healthy gill function by reducing the intake of oxygen and the release of carbon dioxide and ammonium from the fish. Pond Salt reduces the risk of osmotic shock by supplying natural electrolytes through the chloride cells in the gills.

Nitrite Toxicity

Overcrowding and overfeeding can lead to elevated nitrite levels especially in newly set-up ponds. The nitrite ion NO 2 enters the gills and prevents the blood from carrying oxygen resulting in nitrite toxicity or "methemoglobinemia". Pond Salt will temporarily block the toxic effect of nitrite.

All natural Pond Salt is safe and non-toxic to all pond fish when used as directed. Pond Salt can be used safely with Pond Care water conditioners, filtration materials and fish foods.

Directions for Use:

1. When used as a general tonic for fish, and as a stress reducer, add 2 -1/2 cups full (728g) of Pond Salt for each 100 gallons (378 L) of pond water. Sprinkle salt evenly around the perimeter of the pond. Avoid any contact between salt crystals and pond plants. If this is not feasible, pre-dissolve salt first.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Once added to a pond, salt does not evaporate and is not filtered out. Pond Salt should only be added as directed; with each water change, or when fish have been treated with medications.

2. When used to reduce stress in separate treatment tanks or during fish transportation, use 4 tablespoons full (95.2g) of Pond Salt for each 10 gallons (37.8L) of water.

For the health of your pond and environment, it is important that you test pond water regularly. We recommend Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Dry-Tab Master Test Kit for Ponds to test for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

For more information about Pond Salt, click here:

http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Additives/pondcare_pondsalt.html

About The Author

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.

Funniest Pond Stories - Part 1, May 2004

2005-04-11T09:11:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-04-11T09:09:00.000-04:00

Get ready for some gut-wrenching, laugh out loud hilarious pond stories from all over the world...

We had some hilarious, truly gut wrenching, laugh out-loud stories sent in by some of you. Here we're going to highlight some of the funniest stories for you to read.

We had entries from all over the place (Inluding one all the way from THAILAND!) The competition was fierce, and to be honest - I had a really hard time deciding on one 'funniest' story, but here's a brief rundown of our entries: cats, dogs, and bunnies (?) all taking the Nestea plunge right into the water, a hungry KOI nibbling in dangerous territory, a missing flip flop, an electrifying experience for grandma, fun for the whole family, fish frape, and flying fish to boot!

First, let's start with this very funny story about 'Smokey' - who apparently thinks he can walk on water. This was sent in by Mike Lachance from Maryland:

Funny Pond Story #1

"I wish I had a photo to share of this very true story but any ponder with cats has likely had the same experience at some time or another. Several years ago, when I was enjoying the second season of my first pond (I have now built four as I've moved around), one of our cats, "Smokey", who was a natural hunter in her prime, saw a mockingbird alight on a lilly pad to get a drink of water. Well, old "Smokester" slowly crept out from under some day lillies and made a spectacular jump with all four paws majestically carrying her like a flying squirrel, right for that intruding bird.

It is not as though she had not already had a couple of encounters with the water but that day the feathered treat must have been too much for her to pass up. Well, both my wife and I were there to see her make a wonderful belly flop into the pond.

Of course, the bird was out of the way in plenty of time and I swear that that cat walked on her toes the five feet it took her to get out of the water! And of course, after removing herself from the water, in a very nonchalant manner, proceeded to lift each leg, shake off the water and as much as say "I meant to do that, you know".

Smokey often spent time at the pond later, using her tail to attract the fish (she would put it in the water and swish it around and the fish would come up to explore it. She never did catch one). She also loved to sit at the waterfall and enjoy the water moving past her. So that is my funny pond story.

=== Funny Pond Story #2

"Dear all at McArthur,

My funniest pond story is about my late aunt, who introduced me to the joy of backyard ponds. Donna had a large koi pond in her backyard that she devoted endless amounts of love and attention to. As happens with most ponds, spring brought some uninvited guests...in this case frogs. One evening Donna was working on the pond, checking the cantankerous pump and filter system, and using her net to skim out leaves and what not that had blown in.

My 80+ plus year old grandmother was supervising the work and offering her expert opinion on how to proceed. They were amazed at the number of frogs that had taken up residence, and not too happy about it. Donna noticed a frog swimming at the far side of the pond that she wanted to get out...something was not quite right about the way he was swimming, and she pointed him out to Grandma. "Mom, look at that frog swimming on his back!" Grandma was a bit skeptical...frogs doing the back stroke were a phenomenon that she was unfamiliar with.

She advised that this misfit should be removed immediately. Don't want to give the other little froggies strange ideas. Donna made several attempts at scooping the miscreant up with her net, but he was just out of reach. Only one thing left to do. Roll up your shorts and wade in after him. The answer to Mr. Frogs strange swimming technique became painfully obvious as soon as Donna reached his immediate vacinity....a faulty under water light had shorted and electrocuted him! Donna didn't need her electric rollers for a few days after that!"

Enecia Sabroff

Funny Pond Story #3

"Hello----My husband recently bought a beagle puppy, at this time he was 8 weeks old. My husband also bought two almost, semi-tame rabbits to help train the puppy to track rabbits. At this time I only had one pond that was preformed 550 gallons, my husband put one of the rabbits out to platy with the puppy, the rabbit was teasing the puppy, running a little ways then jumping over his head, then the rabbit decided he didn't want to play anymore so he started to run from Bear (the puppy), and he dove into the pond. We were thinking that Bear would go around the pond to the other side and continue chasing the bunny, but Bear just dove right in, he was so little though that he had to be rescued from the small backyard pond. My husband's only response was "he's going to be a good rabbit dog!" Well, thanks for listening to my story. Sincerely, Roberta Collins Toledo, Ohio

Funny Pond Story #4

"A story to share...

Two years ago I started with the crazy idea of building a small pond with koi fishes. After a lot of working I finally built it, and decorated it with all sort of plants. One day... mi female cat “Manchita” went to the pond to examine this new construction. She went to the border, jumped on a flat stone and starter to drink water. To her big surprise one of the fishes , possibly thinking that the white nose of my cat was food, jumped out of the water, trying to eat it.. Can you imagine the surprise of the cat ? I believe that the fish was also quite impressed with the experience. My cat almost fell into the pond , .. and from then on she never went around the pond again. She used to watch the pond from my dorm, located in the second floor and just across the pond. Unfortunately I did not take a picture of this “accident”. I am sending you a pictute of this first pond; in the meantime I did build another, larger one. Unfortunately “Manchita” is not around any more, she passed away a few month ago, from old age.. This story happened in Valdivia, a city located in the south of Chile. In this country winter is approaching, with lots of leaves falling from the trees an the plants in my pond preparing themselves to sleep for a while..." Maria Fresard

==

Funny Pond Story #5

"I have two ponds. An upper and lower pond. The upper pond is fed by a waterfall with the source being the lower pond (driven by a pump). The lower pond is fed by an overflow of the upper pond that flows underground for about 70 feet (12 in drain pipe). Last summer I rescued some trout fingerlings from a seasonal stream going dry near my home. I put them in the lower pond. This spring I was sitting in my kitchen and could see something flopping on my water fall. The trout had migrated up the overflow tube and were trying to swim further upstream via the water falls. No so funny but does show the strength of nature. Just a few weeks ago, Egrets found the pond and the fish.

There is nothing left to migrate at this time. Not so funny but does an Egret taste anything like a turkey when cooked?"

Tom Gegenheimer

==

Funny Pond Story #6

"We have only had a pond for a short time ... details can be seen at http://thailand4life.net/smithgarden/

The funny story must include the workmen (in Thailand) who took zero safety precautions when constructing the pond.

Watching guys shovelling concrete from a lorry and spreading it across the bottom of the pond ... when the footwear they had was just 'flip-flops' resulted in great entertainment .... especially when. several times, the flip flops came off and were lost in the cement somewhere (eventually found while they walked around bare footed) .... pictures at

http://thailand4life.net/smithgarden/images/large/DSC03062.jpg

http://thailand4life.net/smithgarden/images/large/DSC03070.jpg

http://thailand4life.net/smithgarden/images/large/DSC03060.jpg

Strangely it was only the guys .... the women laborers all wore Wellington boots .... maybe this reflects on which of the sexes is really the most sensible?" Regards, Chris

==

Funny Pond Story #7

"I am building a pond at this time and I was in the process of building a waterfall in the corner of a fence. The waterfall is about 3 feet high and 7 feet wide. I thought I was finishing up the waterfall with some flat rock on the very top. So I straddeled thewaterfall with my knees on the second ledge and set the flat rock on top. When I did this the whole waterfall fell down because I build it on blocks and not a pile of dirt.

When it fell one big rock caught my foot and I slide down the fall and fell backwards into the pond going all the way under and had a couple of big rocks come down on me. Meanwhile my wife is laughing her butt of at me and I asked her to help me out she slipped on the flat wet rock that surounded the ponds edge and half way fell in with me.

Now my two boys were playing in the yard they are 5 and 3 and saw this happen to us and they thought it was time to got swimming so guess who jumped into the pond with us, the boys. Nothing like having the whole family in on the pond. We laughed for awhile but then I had to rebuild the whole waterfall again and this time I put the top rocks on from the side."

Robert H Coppa Jr.

==

Funny Pond Story #8

I decided 300 gallons would be perfect. I did all the math and spent a great deal of time working with more experienced ponders. Somehow when it was all said and done my little 300 gallon pond ended up being 810 gallons and come to find out it was yet another one of my mathematical errors. Guess I should have paid more attention in that college level math class required for my Associates, right.

We got the pond all up and running but because of the miscalculation we now needed a bigger pump to feed the waterfall so I went to our local water garden supplier and asked which one to get. Budget was a concern so it was recommended that we got a ¾ HP submersible pump that cycles 44 gallons a minuet. It was only $70 in comparison to the $170 one that was its comparative alternative so… we went that route. $70 dollars later we had a working pond with a beautiful waterfall! I was so excited I could hardly wait to get fish.

Again budget was a concern so we went to the local pet store and picked up $50 dollars worth of fish, about 8 fish. 4 large gold Koi, some yellow and a blue Koi. The color excited me so much I never considered what would happen when the fish became comfortable in their new home. The swam around investigating for a day or two then started to come up missing. I had it figured that they were hiding or that a cat was getting fed to well but I never figured it was something I could have done. It was the pump… the intake valve on the pump was to large and the fish were getting to close and being sucked into the pump though the motor pushed down the hose into my waterfall.

While this is not a funny story, I must have cried for 3 days, I wanted to share it because this is the one thing I never read anything about in all the 6 weeks of reading I did on the web. I can chuckle about it now with a ‘I can’t believe I didn’t think of that’ thought.

Had I known this was possible I would have done something to prevent it by caging in my pump or spending the extra $100 to get the right kind of pump.

Hope someone else can save a Koi by my blending experience.

Thanks,

New to ponds and already thinking of making it fish free!" Sheri Furr

==

Well that's it for this year's 'Funniest Pond Stories'... Hope you enjoyed them as much as I did!

About The Author

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 6,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens>

Summer Pond Tips By Brett Fogle

2005-04-09T08:31:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens

2005-04-09T08:30:00.000-04:00

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the less oxygen that's available. Water temperatures over 90 degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of the day.

It's Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox, Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects, flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for treatments because different symptoms are indicative of different infections. Follow label instructions at all times or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.

It takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and 4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your water levels daily or as neccessary. Remember, do not use water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over totally at least twice per day.

Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond's surface area covered with floating plants or other types of shade.

Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall below 7 PPM.

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https://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Newsletters/Summer-pond-tips.shtml

About The Author

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.

brett@macarthurwatergardens.com

Hot-Weather Fish Feeding Facts By Brett Fogle

2005-04-08T08:56:00.000-04:00

Amazing Water Gardens