Amazing Water Gardens: Amazing New Pond Water Filter

Amazing Water Gardens: Amazing New Pond Water Filter

Amazing New Pond Water Filter

Amazing New Pond Water Filter – Attaches Directly to Your Garden Hose, and Instantly Removes Harmful Chemicals like Chlorine and Chloramine - Before They Go Into Your Pond

August 23, 2004 -- The new PF-100 pond water filter was developed specifically for pond owners. This unique new water filter design attaches to any standard garden hose or faucet, and instantly removes harmful chemicals like Chlorine, Chlorine, and Ammonia. Best of all, pond owners never have to worry about adding de-chlorinator again.

The new PondFresh PF-100 was designed specifically for pond owners.
This unique new water filter attaches directly to your garden hose and removes harmful chemicals from your tap water, including:

• Chlorine
• Chloramines
• Heavy Metals
• 45 other VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds)

Featuring the Aquaspace Compound
The PondFresh PF-100 uses a state-of-the-art filtering media, originally developed by NASA for use in it's space program. We had this filter designed for us by Aquaspace Water Filters, who has the exclusive license for using this technology.

Here are some other benefits:

• Easy to use!
• Compact and easy to store!
• Removes harmful chemicals Instantly!
• Reduces stress on your fish!
• Lasts up to 1 Year or 20,000 Gallons!
• Provides Drinking Quality Water!

If you would like more information about this product, or to schedule an interview with Brett Fogle, please call 1-800-695-4913 or email bfogle@bellatlantic.net

Brett Fogle
Tel. 1800-695-4913
Cell: 561-650-5105
Email: bfogle@bellatlantic.net





This article courtesy of http://amazingwatergardens.com.
You may freely reprint this article on your website or in
your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author
name and URL remain intact.

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

How to find a Pond Leak

If you have ever experienced a leak in your pond you will
know how time consuming and frustrating pinpointing the
source of the leak can be! While all ponds will lose some
water due to normal environmental issues such as evaporation
through sun or wind and splash, major water loss is a
significant problem.

The following steps should help make the task a little
easier:

1.Turn off the pump and observe water levels

(a) Does the water level continue to drop? If yes go to Step
3

(b) Does the water level remain the same? If yes go to step
2

2.The leak is not in your base pond.

(a)Inspect your plumbing, making sure that all joins and
fastenings are tight and waterproof.

(b)Ensure no plant matter is intruding into the
creek/waterfall causing water to run along plant stems and
out of the pond.

(c)Check the positioning of your rocks / pebbles. They may
have moved into the water, raising the water level thus
causing water to spill out.

(d)When surrounding garden area is dry check for wet
patches, indicating leaks. Inspect closer around the source
of any wet patches.

(e)Check your creek / waterfall for a build-up of organic
matter such as leaves, branches and twigs. Debris can cause
dams thus raising the water level causing the water to spill
out.

(f)Check liner is still in its original position and has
not dropped in height.

3.The leak is in your base pond.

(a)Watch the water level closely until the water level is
stable. Remove any fish and plants from the pond and store
temporarily in a container original pond water if water
level drops dangerously low.

(b)When the water level is no longer dropping check very
carefully around the water level. Some leaks will be obvious
while others will be tiny little holes that may be difficult
to see.

(c)If you have a larger leak, try putting some milk into
the water. The milk will cloud the water and move toward the
direction of the leak. This is not always successful but is
worth trying.

4.Repair the leak.

(a)Once you have located the leak you need to repair it.
Use either:

(i)Poly Pond Repair Kit or
(ii)PVC Liner Repair Kit





About the Author
Danielle Dickinson is an avid water feature enthusiast. She is a regular contributor to Gardening Magazines. Visit her website http://www.waterfeaturesonline.com.au for more information on building and maintaining any type of Water Feature as well as a huge range of water gardening products.

Amazing Water Gardens: Pool landscaping designs,

Amazing Water Gardens: Pool landscaping designs,

Pool landscaping designs,

Have you visions of turning your pool landscaping designs into successful projects? Building backyard ponds using preformed ponds built into the ground
If you are contemplating building a water garden or a backyard pool for yourself using a built in preformed pond liner then here is the way to make sure your pool landscaping designs work out in practice.

Planning Pool Landscaping Designs around A Preformed Pond Liner
Place the preformed pond liner in position and mark out the shape on the ground around it.
Carefully remove any turf within the shape and excavate to a level soil surface slightly larger than the shape. A long spirit level, or a spirit level with a long straight edge is essential.
Excavate the shape of the preformed pond liner down to the same depth as the marginal shelf. Then make it one inch deeper (25mm) and 4 inches (100mm) larger all around.
Check the hole is level, particularly around the edge.
Place the preformed pond liner in the excavation in its intended position and mark with a sharp stick or trowel the shape of the bottom of the preformed pond liner in the soil.
Remove the pool shape and excavate to the full depth of the preformed pond liner plus an inch (25mm). With a bit of adjustment the preformed pond liner will fit like a glove, albeit slightly too large. The preformed pond liner should be sitting just below the level you had intended.
Remove the preformed pond liner and spread a layer of sand one inch thick over the base and the marginal shelf areas.
Put the preformed pond liner back in. Ensure the base is firm and level and there is solid support under the marginal shelves. Start to fill it with water.
Take a look at Peter May's Perfect Pond Recipe book .... available by download or print and full of self explantory sketches

Whilst the preformed pond liner is filling, push sand into the gap between the preformed pond liner and the soil. The level of this backfill must go in unison with the water filling the pool and the pressure at which it is pushed in should correspond with the pressure from the water in the pool. This is a balancing act in which the sand or water could distort the shape. One German manufacturer used to recommend washing the sand into place in order to consolidate it. Doing this presupposes that the excavation is in fairly well drained soil and that you do not to get carried away with the backwash, otherwise the preformed pond liner just floats out of the hole.

Whatever method in landscaping designs you use, leave the pond there full of water over night to do any settling that might latterly occur, before you attempt any edging. If it shifts - empty it and build up the sand support where it has sunk. Gently ramming down the backfill further at the lowest point can make up tiny fractions in subsidence. If you need to do this don’t overdo it because it can buckle up the rim of the preformed pond liner, which you want to keep as flat as possible to take whatever edging you might want to choose to go round it.

Help to choose your preferred landscaping designs
Preformed pond liner for consideration in landscaping designs
Size limitation. Even the largest sizes of plastic pools are difficult to install level. Very large fibreglass pools are very heavy.
Seem easier to install in loose uneven ground. For the very large fibreglass pools, installation is not a one-person project.
Easier to keep clean but can look sterile and ‘plasticy’ in a natural environment.
Flexible pond liner for consideration in landscaping designs
Can be any shape and any size
Need a skeletal framework of blockwork or concrete to cope with loose soil or uneven ground.
Can be made to look more ‘natural’ by facing the inside with rockery. You can even line it with soil.
Marginal plant shelf can be where ever you choose.
Easily incorporate such features as jetties, decking, stonewalls, brick or wood facing and beaches
Take a look at Peter May's Perfect Pond Recipe book .... available by download or print and full of self explantory sketches

Blogger: Amazing Water Gardens :: Publish Status

Blogger: Amazing Water Gardens :: Publish Status

How To Measure Water Garden Pond Depths and Volumes

Pond depth is one of those factors in pond building much talked about and misunderstood especially by those people who "mix" with dedicated koi keepers.
So often you must ask yourself do I want a koi pond in which I want to raise monster sized or prize winning koi or do I want a garden fish pond containing koi around which I can sit with the family and enjoy the scene.

If you belong to the dedicated koi keeper class then yes depth of your pond should not be less than 4 ft and preferably 6 feet. This is quite simply to provide space to swim and exercise a mechanism which in part determines the koi's shape.

For most garden ponds 3 feet is deep enough and even less suits many situations. In cold climates shallow ponds freeze and in hot climates they get very warm. In shallow ponds you see MUCH more of your fish and their behaviour.

Most aquatic plants prefer shallow ponds.

Deep ponds cost much more than shallow ponds ... is this reason for many deep pond recommendations or am I sceptical?

Finally the choice comes down to personal preference, space and money available component.
If you need to calculate the pond's volume .... the volume of any pond is the surface area multiplied by its average depth. The more accurately you know both these numbers the more accurate your calculation will be.

If you have a pond and the depth is not constant you can make a very good estimate by taking a stick and mark it in intervals of say 3 inches with an indelible ink pen. At 10 different places in the pond insert the stick and record
the depths (10 numbers).

Add the numbers together and divide by 10. Use this answer as the average depth of the pond.

If your pond is of equal depth and the same cross section then you can accurately measure the pond volume using your pond pump. Do the following ....

Record the depth of the pond accurately before doing anything else.
Using the pond pump and a pipe time how long it takes to fill say a 5 gallons container to the 5 gallons mark (not much more not much less).

Now pump water out of the pond for say 5 minutes

Record the depth after pumping out water

The pond's volume is then calculated as follows:

S = depth of pond in inches or any unit before pumping starts
D = inches or any unit of water pumped out of pond when pumping
i.e. difference between start depth and final depth.
T1 = time to fill the container
T2 = time pump was run to pump out water
V = volume of container

Volume of pond = (S x V x T2) DIVIDED BY (D x T1)
Example:
S = 30 inches
D = 3 inches
T1 = 1 minute
T2 = 10 minutes
V = 3 gallons

Pond volume = (30 x 3 x 10) divided by (3 x 1)

= (900) divided by (3)

= 300 gallons

If container was in gallons then final pond volume is in gallons. If container was in litres then final pond volume is in litres

It does not matter whether you measure depth in inches or any other units.

Use the pump to pump out water in the same position used to fill the container.

Amazing Water Gardens: Fish pond pumps to pond biofilters must run 24/7/365

Amazing Water Gardens: Fish pond pumps to pond biofilters must run 24/7/365

Fish pond pumps to pond biofilters must run 24/7/365

Never switch off your pond pump for more than a few minutes if you keep fish. A pump in a fish pond serves a very important reason. Of course it circulates the water and it drives a fountain or a waterfall. Yes of course it adds character and movement to your system.

However ......
Its most important job is to provide life-giving oxygen to bacteria in the fish pond biofilter.

A pumps works like your heart ... the heart continuously replenishes your vital organs with freshly oxygenated blood. A pump in a pond does the same.

Let me take you through the events ....
Water absorbs oxygen at any interface between water and air.

Colder water can hold more oxygen than warmer water.
Windy days are better than still days for absorbing oxygen.

Water has more oxygen in it during the day than it does at night especially if there are pond plants growing in the pond.

A waterfall and a fountain are extremely useful in a pond because they increase that interface between water and air (small droplets have large area) which allows for more air to be absorbed.

Now some of this dissolved oxygen is used by your fish to breathe and most people do realise this.

What people do not realise very well is that water when it enters the biofilter has a certain amount of oxygen in it ..... let's say 100% for ease of understanding.

The bacteria in your biofilter are waiting for some food (nitrogen chemicals from fish waste) also dissolved in the pond water to reach them and they will also remove some of the oxygen in the water reducing the 100% to a lower value ... maybe even zero. Let me explain in a simplified but essentially accurate way .......

In order to digest this incoming food each bacteria needs a small amount of oxygen. This oxygen combines with the nitrogen molecules and eventually becomes what we call nitrates. Initially the nitrogen chemical food source before it is converted by the biofilter bacteria is called Ammonia and its chemical formula is NH3.

Notice ammonia contains no O ... for oxygen .... only N for nitrogen and H for hydrogen.
The biofilter bacteria, aeromonas and pseudomonas, convert the waste ammonia to nitrates. Notice what was initially NH3 has changed to a new chemical formula going by the general name of nitrates. The formula for nitrates is NO3. So what has happened?

The bacteria have removed the H from ammonia and exchanged it for 3 oxygen atoms. The H dropped from the ammonia molecule also combines with more O to form H2O ... water.

It should be obvious from this very simple explanation that a considerable amount of oxygen is needed to allow the bacteria to do their work.

Consequently the water leaving the biofilter does not have 100% oxygen but much less. In very efficient biofilters like the modern filters from the UK company Aqua Evolution most of the oxygen is removed and has to be quickly replenished if the bacteria are not to die.

So now you know .... never switch off your pond pump for any length of time if you keep fish and certainly never during feeding.
Here's are three very practical implication which you should take into serious consideration when you buy a pump ...

Will your retailer always ensure that you will have a pump if yours breaks down during the guarantee period?

Two pumps are almost always better than one, very often cheaper too, and this means you always have a spare pump for an emergency.

All biofilters benefit from adding extra air directly into the active biological area inside the biofilter. Without extra air over-designed static bed biofilters can in fact create anaerobic filter areas.

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water gardens - Backyard Ponds: "Commercial Ponds Fiberglass Ponds Fish Pond"

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Amazing Water Gardens: How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

Amazing Water Gardens: How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

How to Find a Pond Leak by Danielle Dickinson

If you have ever experienced a leak in your pond you will
know how time consuming and frustrating pinpointing the
source of the leak can be! While all ponds will lose some
water due to normal environmental issues such as evaporation
through sun or wind and splash, major water loss is a
significant problem.

The following steps should help make the task a little
easier:

1.Turn off the pump and observe water levels

(a) Does the water level continue to drop? If yes go to Step
3

(b) Does the water level remain the same? If yes go to step
2

2.The leak is not in your base pond.

(a)Inspect your plumbing, making sure that all joins and
fastenings are tight and waterproof.

(b)Ensure no plant matter is intruding into the
creek/waterfall causing water to run along plant stems and
out of the pond.

(c)Check the positioning of your rocks / pebbles. They may
have moved into the water, raising the water level thus
causing water to spill out.

(d)When surrounding garden area is dry check for wet
patches, indicating leaks. Inspect closer around the source
of any wet patches.

(e)Check your creek / waterfall for a build-up of organic
matter such as leaves, branches and twigs. Debris can cause
dams thus raising the water level causing the water to spill
out.

(f)Check liner is still in its original position and has
not dropped in height.

3.The leak is in your base pond.

(a)Watch the water level closely until the water level is
stable. Remove any fish and plants from the pond and store
temporarily in a container original pond water if water
level drops dangerously low.

(b)When the water level is no longer dropping check very
carefully around the water level. Some leaks will be obvious
while others will be tiny little holes that may be difficult
to see.

(c)If you have a larger leak, try putting some milk into
the water. The milk will cloud the water and move toward the
direction of the leak. This is not always successful but is
worth trying.

4.Repair the leak.

(a)Once you have located the leak you need to repair it.
Use either:

(i)Poly Pond Repair Kit or
(ii)PVC Liner Repair Kit





About the Author
Danielle Dickinson is an avid water feature enthusiast. She is a regular contributor to Gardening Magazines. Visit her website http://www.waterfeaturesonline.com.au for more information on building and maintaining any type of Water Feature as well as a huge range of water gardening products.